ARTISTIC RETREAT

Beyond the polo fi eld, businessman Édouard Carmignac has been quietly building a unique collection of artwork. Carolina Beresford discovers the Carmignac Foundation space on the island of Porquerolles

MATTHIIEU SALVAING; FONDATION CAMIGNAC; RUSCHA: © EDWARD J RUSCHA IV E ntrepreneur and disciple of beauty Édouard Carmignac is admired for many things, not least for being the man who made the colour pink cool for aspiring and established polo players alike. Ever the perfect Frenchman, Carmignac is charismatic, charming, and always confi dent in rose, and his organisation, Talandracas, has been one of the driving forces behind high-goal polo for decades.

But beyond the polo fi eld, he has been building an intriguing cultural project: an exquisite art collection spanning centuries.

Carmignac, now 71, became interested in collecting artwork from the moment he got his own apartment at the age of 18. His fi rst purchase was a lithograph by Ernst, and over the decades he has acquired pieces by artists such as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, JeanMichel Basquiat, Gerhard Richter, Jeff Koons, Cindy Sherman and Willem de Kooning. Until this summer, his collection could be admired only by those working at his company offi ces. However, it has always been Carmignac’s wish to share his treasures with the wider world, and Fondation Carmignac was founded in 2000 to do just that. Aft er a few false starts, the Carmignac Collection came to life in June, on the verdant island of Porquerolles, just off the southern coast of France.

Around 300 artworks belonging to the Foundation are now housed in 2,000 sq m of bright exhibition space in a Provençal villa bound between rugg ed cliff s and translucent beaches in the heart of the island’s nature reserve.

Building constraints forced the galleries to exist below ground, but natural light, fi ltered through an aquatic ceiling, illuminates every corner. What’s more, visits are limited to 50 people per half-hour, making the experience even more leisurely.

Outside, the striking exhibits continue in the sculpture gardens. Designed by renowned landscape architect Louis Benech, the space is home to a collection of pieces from commissioned projects or artist’s residencies, and the forest is full of installations, temporary artworks and performance art. Th e natural drama of the landscape serves to accentuate the beauty of the pieces on display, which are fl anked by olive trees. Closer to the house there is a small vineyard, alongside jacarandas, eucalyptus and mimosa trees for an exotic twist.

Th e thing that is particularly alluring about Carmignac’s artwork is that it is his own personal collection. Having grown up between Peru, Paris and New York, his eclectic pieces relive and reference fascinating periods of his life, such as his time spent hanging out at Warhol’s New York City studio, Th e Factory. He even had his portrait done by Basquiat. Th e portrait hangs proudly in Porquerolles near works by

Previous page: Edouard Carmignac at The Foundation. Opposite, from left: Jean Michel Basquiat’s Zing (1984); Les Trois Alchimistes (2018) by Jaume Plensa Main: Untitled (1962), Martial Raysse (left) and Gerhard Richter’s Evelyn (Blau) (1964). Left: Edouard Carmignac with Prince Harry after winning the Queen’s Cup

© THE ESTATE OF JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIAT / © ADAGP PARIS 2018; MARC DOMAGE/ © FONDATION CARMIGNAC; © ADAGP PARIS 2018; © GERHARD RICHTER 2018; TONY RAMIREZ/IMAGESOFPOLO.COM Carmignac’s favourite artist, Roy Lichtenstein, making it the most important private collection of pieces by the American Pop Art icon in France.

Th e Foundation is also home to photography and photojournalism, another interest of Carmignac’s, with a €50,000 cash prize given to the winner of the Carmignac Photojournalism Award each year. Th e prize enables them to carry out an in-depth reportage on human rights violations, which are not covered in traditional media outlets.

Among all the contemporary acquisitions, however, are two jewels by Sandro Botticelli that profoundly shift the tone of the collection: one is a Madonna and Child, the other, a Venus. Carmignac has declared he is not interested in other Renaissance artists or Old Masters, but his particular fascination with Botticelli, he explains, relates to the artist’s notion of beauty, and how the Italians set the standard for centuries to come. While Lichtenstein keeps Carmignac’s heart, Botticelli incites his desire.

Th e concept of gathering a coherent body of art, stylistically or otherwise, was clearly far from Carmignac’s objective when he began buying pieces. ‘I don’t necessarily like the concept of owning a collection,’ he says. ‘Th e works I have bought over the years are more like a “cabinet of curiosities” of my life – traces of my experiences, thoughts and emotions.’

Intimate as it may be, Carmignac has now set his fl ock free. Fondation Carmignac’s inaugural exhibition, Sea of Desire, opened on 2 June, 2018, and displays 70 works from the collection. But Carmignac doesn’t just want to share his trove; his wish is to suff use new meaning into his collection by handing the keys of the Villa to a diff erent curator every year.

‘I want an outside eye to look at the works we have, and use the space to pass on his own message,’ explains

Opposite: Roy Lichtenstein’s Collage For Nude With Red Shirt (1995). This page, clockwise, from left: Charles and Edouard Carmignac; a bird’s-eye view of Porquerolles; an exhibition space in the Foundation’s garden Carmignac. ‘I think it is very interesting to have someone else look at your collection and fi nd lines of meaning that you have not found, and unravel them. Th is endeavour refl ects my deep desire to make a bigg er commitment to contemporary art – to engage with artists by exhibiting them in a preserved and unique environment, and to engage with the public by creating the ideal conditions for encounters and explorations.’

It is clear that Carmignac wishes the public to play a central role at Porquerolles. Th e Foundation aspires to encourage visitors to shed the rigid form maintained by traditional art admirers, and adopt the posture of adventurers, seekers and revellers. ‘I hate museums,’ proclaims Carmignac. ‘I want a living Foundation.’ His son, Charles, who has been appointed director of the Foundation, echoes his sentiment. ‘Porquerolles can’t just be a place where you hang a collection,’ he says. ‘It has to be a place for creative exchange. We want to invite artists and scientists, turn it into a place where artworks are created, and have residencies where artists will get inspired by the island.’

Th is enthralling collection, created by one man guided by a sharp vision, and brought to life by a cooperative unit of believers, represents everything the cultural experience should be: an open invitation to join the spectacle.

Corinne Cleary explores the infl uence Coco Chanel’s love aff air with the polo player Boy Capel had on the designer’s revolutionary fashions and iconic double ‘C’ logo

This page Polo player Arthur Capel, Opposite Gabrielle Chanel and Arthur Capel by the cartoonist Sem, 1913; the Capel Cup polo trophy

The legendary Parisian fashion designer Coco Chanel was famed for her unique sense of style and innovative designs, which introduced a new trend for comfortable and practical, yet eminently elegant clothing for women. Chanel’s insouciant style was both groundbreaking and controversial when she came to success in the early 20th century, with clothing that rejected the restrictive and over-elaborate female fashions of the day. She believed ‘simplicity’ to be ‘the keynote of all true elegance’, and that ‘luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury’. Th ese convictions are largely attributed to Chanel’s rebellious nature, love of active pursuits and desire for freedom, however a look at the designer’s personal life, during the early stages of her career, reveals another profound infl uence on her creations: a romance with the polo player Arthur ‘Boy’ Capel, referred to by Chanel as ‘the love of her life’.

Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel was born in Saumur, France in 1883, into inauspicious circumstances as the daughter of a laundress and an itinerant salesman. Upon the death of her mother, Chanel’s father abandoned his fi ve children, placing the two boys on working farms and the three girls at Aubazine – an orphanage run by the Sisters of the Sacred Heart of Mary. Arriving there aged 12, Chanel remained at Aubazine for seven years and, while there, developed an appreciation for austerity, and the purity of black and white, that would later manifest in her designs. Upon leaving Aubazine at 19, she began working as a seamstress by day and a singer by night at La Rotonde – a cabaret in Moulins frequented by the Tenth Light Horse infantryman regiment. It was there, performing a song about a Parisian lady who loses her dog Coco at the Trocadero amusement park, that she acquired her nickname ‘Coco’. It was also here that she met her fi rst lover and business partner, the French aristocrat and infantryman Étienne Balsan – a close friend of Boy Capel.

Étienne Balsan came from a wealthy family distinguished in the textile industry. As a boy he attended boarding school in England, where he developed a passion for horses and dreamed of breeding thoroughbreds upon completion of his military service. Chanel soon became Étienne’s mistress and, in 1907, moved into his Château de Royallieu located in Compiègne, north of Paris – a pedigree location for thoroughbred breeding – where she pursued equestrian sports and was ensconced in the chic thoroughbred-racing world of Longchamp. In 1908, aft er expressing her desire to become fi nancially independent by selling her millinery designs to the society ladies, Étienne off ered Chanel his bachelor apartment in Paris to use as a studio and, in 1910, fi nanced her fi rst millinery boutique at 21 Rue Cambon, helping to establish her independent reputation.

By this point, though, Chanel and Balsan were friends rather than lovers as Chanel had already begun an aff air with Balsan’s friend, the English aristocrat, and accomplished polo player Boy Capel. Th e pair had met during a fox hunting trip together with Balsan in the Pyrenees region a few years before and Chanel soon aft er began to accompany Capel to polo matches at both the Paris and Deauville Polo Clubs. Before long the pair fell deeply in love, to the dismay of Balsan who nevertheless remained a loyal friend to Chanel for the rest of his life. While on holiday with Capel in Deauville on the Normandy coast – a chic seaside resort, and the epicenter of thoroughbred racing during the Belle Époque era – Chanel could not fi nd comfortable clothing to suit her needs and resorted to fashioning outfi ts from the garments she discovered in Capel’s wardrobe, such as a dress she made from an old jersey of his. Her self-styled creations – made from Capel’s sartorial polo clothing, feminised with her impeccable touch – caused a sensation among other women, who kept asking where her outfi ts were from, inspiring her now iconic designs and encouraging her expansion from millinery into clothing.

Th e heir to a coal and shipping fortune, Capel also helped to fi nance Chanel’s early business initiatives, funding a boutique in Deauville where she launched her fi rst women’s clothing collection in 1913. Th e sportswear-inspired garments were created from unconventional fabrics such as polo jerseys, knits and fl annels, and featured feminised striped and marinière sailing shirts, loose pants, sweaters and collarless blazers – off ering her clientele an alternative to prominent couture designers of the time, such as Lanvin, Doucet, and Poiret.

Chanel’s masterstroke was in bypassing her competition by focusing on summer sportswear that provided elegance and ease of movement – discarding the corset, and superfl uous decorations, to transform the female silhouette and liberate women’s fashion. She staged catwalk shows along the Deauville boardwalk and around town to advertise her dress designs, which attracted much attention and success. Chanel would later attribute her success to that one fortuitous moment in Deauville – rummaging through Boy Capel’s wardrobe, looking for something to wear – telling her biographer, Paul Morand, ‘My fortune is built on that old jersey that I’d put on because it was cold in Deauville’.

Chanel’s Deaville boutique fl ourished and, with additional fi nancing from Capel, in 1915 she opened her fi rst couture house, in Biarritz, followed by another in Paris, in 1918. It was here, at 31 Rue Cambon – the maison where Chanel established herself as the epitome of Parisian high fashion – that she also achieved her much sought-aft er independence, earning enough money to no longer require fi nancial support.

Capel married Lady Diana Wyndham in 1918, but his aff air with Chanel is said to have continued until 1919, when he was tragically killed in a motor accident en route from Paris to Monte Carlo. Bereaved and devastated, Chanel proclaimed: ‘I die as well or I fi nish what we started together’. She chose to go on, and it is said that Chanel’s fi rst fragrance – the iconic Chanel No.5 – was inspired by Capel, born out of her great love for him.

Shortly aft er his death, Capel’s sister Bertha donated a silver trophy to the Polo Club of Paris where Capel played frequently, inscribed ‘Coupe Arthur Capel’ in his memory. In her book Chanel: An Intimate Life, biographer Lisa Chaney states that the cup was created ‘almost certainly in collaboration with Gabrielle [Chanel],’ and describes the design of the cup as featuring ‘a most unusual form of decoration on a polo trophy for the period – a relief band of intertwined circles, or back-to-back Cs’. Chaney interprets this as the fi rst depiction of the Chanel logo: ‘With Arthur still uppermost in Gabrielle’s mind, it could well have occurred to her to sugg est this decoration to Bertha. Representing Arthur’s and her own name: Capel and Chanel. If not in actuality, in a symbolic fantasy Gabrielle and Arthur would be conjoined.’

Th e origin of these interlocked Cs, which offi cially became the Chanel logo in 1925, has been hypothesised about for decades. Th eories about their inspiration range from the geometric forms of a stained glass window in an Aubazine chapel, to the insignia of the Château de Crémat in Nice, which Chanel used to frequent, to an inversion of her own initials. However, given their early appearance on the Arthur Capel Cup, it may well be that they were created as a symbolic homage to Chanel and Capel’s great romance, and immortalised by Chanel’s continued creativity and success.

Opposite, from left: Arthur ‘Boy’ Capel; a drawing by French artist Léon Fauret depicting the Capel cup trophy. This page Polo player Boy and Coco Chanel photographed together circa 1910