True repair lasts.
THE NEW REVOLUTION IN HAIRCARE THAT REDEFINES THE SALON VISIT THE THREE STAGE PROFIBER HAIRCARE PROTOCOL DELIVERS LONG LASTING REPAIR TO DAMAGED HAIR*. Initiated in salon: Build client loyalty with the exclusive in-salon service Reactivated at-home: Home care regime designed to regenerate the hair fibre from roots to ends* 3/ Prolonged: Spectacular results that last for up to 6 weeks with the Profiber at-home recharge** 1/
2/
Powered by APTYL 100 Technology : 15 years of research. 15 patents pending.
A revolution exclusive to L’Oréal Professional Salons *Auto-evaluation of 333 women using the Pro Fiber Rectify and Reconstruct ranges for 15 days. Instrumental tests after the salon routine – up to 4 Pro Fiber shampoos (Rectify/Restore/Reconstruct). **Reactivation of in-salon treatment by Pro Fiber shampoo up to 4 washes + extension of in-salon treatment by Pro Fiber Re-charge every 4th shampoo.
HAIRCARE NEW ZEALAND
INTRODUCING OUR COOLEST LIGHTENING RANGE EVER
THE LATEST IN LIGHTENING INNOVATION ALL IN ONE COMPLETE PLATFORM Discover the reformulated lightening range from L’Oréal Professionnel with new Blondstudio Freehand Powder and Lightening Oil to UNLEASH your creativity
*TNS salon survey, New Zealand, 2014
ON-TREND TECHNIQUES. ULTIMATE CARE. PROVEN RESULTS.
Auckland
BEFORE
AFTER
AFTER
BEFORE
WINNER Off The Fringe
RUNNER UP Vertu Hair
Napier
We’re super proud to introduce the winners of our total transformation competition for 2015
A huge thank you to all our salons who entered this year. We constantly ask you to step outside your comfort zones, and you do so with so much style and goodwill. It is all of you who make OCS NZ so incredibly special. Check out all the transformations by following the link from our Facebook page.
THIRD EQUAL Renaissance BEFORE
Napier
AFTER
AFTER
BEFORE
THIRD EQUAL Vertu Hair
Nelson
速 ColourSystems
Hair: Off The Fringe Organic Hair Studio. Photography: Chris Young. Makeup: Leonie Wood
Come join our family
Call free 0508 423 737 ext 823 or 021 906 647 Email: info@organiccoloursystems.co.nz www.organiccoloursystems.co.nz www.facebook.com/organiccoloursystemsnz Plastic FREE
Contents 12
editor’s note
20
prof ile
Master of Style: Kevin Murphy 26 Reigning Supreme: Michael Beel 30 Colour Confidential: Jennifer Morgan 44 The Scumbag Barbers
88 business
90 Style Muse: Alice Dellal 92 Organic Gold: Bridgette Young 110 The Brow Queen: Natalie Plain 114 Beauty Insider: Lyndall Mitchell
36
nz awards Trend Visionaries
46 trend watch Hair Couture
64 The Marr Factory 108 The Cosmetic Frontier 124 Raw: Into The Season
32 focus
The Fashion Week Files
Redux
58 Painted Ladies
104 Runaway Bride
72 international
106 Bridal Beauty
78 Goldess
112 Changing Face
84 Acid Mermaid
48 Catwalk Cue
8
52 nz showcase
Neutrois
Power up with Social Media 100 The Good Oil
THE CULTURE CULTURE OF OF HAIRDRESSING HAIRDRESSING THE HAIRDRESSER DRIVEN FORMULAS. FORMULATED WITHOUT HAIRDRESSER WITHOUT PARABENS PARABENS ++ SULFATES*. SULFATES*. VEGETARIAN. VEGETARIAN.CRUELTY CRUELTY++GLUTEN-FREE. GLUTEN-FREE. TOTO CARRY R+CO PRODUCTS, CALL BOUTIQUE BRANDS ON 0800 25 25 30 CARRY US CALL 1-855-RANDCO-5 OR VISIT WWW.RANDCO.COM OR EMAIL HELLO@BOUTIQUEBRANDS.CO.NZ *SLS or SLES
*SLS or SLES
® HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / SPRING 2015 / VOL.38 NO.3
EDITOR
Charmaine Guest charmaine@selfcaregroup.co.nz ph : +64 9 579 5188 ART DIRECTOR
Karla Farrar karla@mintideas.co.nz DESIGN
Kirralee Fisher kirralee@mintideas.co.nz EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS
Charmaine Guest, Richard Kavanagh, Liz Lamb, Wendy Maxwell, Jennifer Morgan, Anne O'Brien, Sharleen Singh, Catherine Stone. PRINTING
Bell Print EDITORAL & ADVERTISING
Contact information : PO Box 14447, Panmure, Auckland 1741 Telephone : +64 9 579 5188 Fax : +64 9 579 7921 Email : charmaine@selfcaregroup.co.nz ADVERTISING RATES SUPPLIED ON REQUEST EDITORIAL
Editorial and pictorial submissions are welcomed. All pictures, prints, manuscripts, and electronic media should be marked with the contributor’s name, contact phone number and address. No material will be returned unless requested and accompanied by a stamped, addressed envelope. No liability or responsibility can be accepted for any loss or damage. CIRCULATION
Headway is widely circulated throughout New Zealand hair, beauty, nail salons and spas. Headway subscription rates in New Zealand are $45.00 (including GST and postage) for one year. HEADWAY® INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND is published by Self Care Group Ltd, 1016a Great South Road, Penrose, Auckland. HEADWAY is published quarterly in March, June, September and December. It is distributed to all paid subscribers, advertisers and their assigns, and widely circulated through New Zealand professional hairdressing and beauty care salons. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or organisation making them and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher. While every care is taken, no liability is assumed or accepted by the publishers for any omissions or errors in articles, listings and advertisements, or any losses due to any omissions or errors.© 2015 Self Care Group Limited. HEADWAY® , ‘HEADWAY INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND ”, and “New Zealand HAIR & BEAUTY” are trademarks of Self Care Group Ltd. All articles, illustrations and materials published herein are copyright and are not to be copied, reproduced or distributed in anyway without the express permission of the publisher. All rights reserved. 10
STOP OVER-CLEANSING! NEW!
CLEANSING CONDITIONERS
Your superhero in the fight against colour fade.
CLEANSE AND CONDITION YOUR HAIR IN ONE COLOUR LOVING STEP. The New Pureology Cleansing Conditioners are designed to gently cleanse sensitised colour treated hair while keeping your hair smooth, manageable and stress free. Alternate your favourite Pureology shampoo with a cleansing conditioner to give your hair all the restorative benefits it needs without buildup.
For Shampoo-Free, Colour-Preserving Care ANTIFADE COMPLEX® • ZEROSULFATE® • 100% VEGAN
pureologynz
pureologynz
Editor's letter Welcome to your spring issue of Headway Magazine. If you're anything like me, you'll be breathing a sigh of relief that winter is officially over for another year. While I wouldn't describe the days as balmy just yet, there's a warmth in the air that signals summer is almost here. It may still be a little too chilly to flaunt your favourite summer fashions but it's a perfect time to plan your new season wardrobe; one of the things I most look forward to with the change of season. Fashion...and hair fashion... is a big focus for us this edition. New Zealand Fashion Week 2015 was brilliant for getting a peek at the autumn/winter 2016 styles coming our way, and was also a chance for our local stylists to shine, creating the 'crowning glory' atop the heads of the beauties parading the catwalk. The opening night of Fashion Week was also all about hair fashion, with 'Exhibit' showcasing the creative genius of five of New Zealand's top salons. Check out all of our favourite looks from the week on page 46. Another event focusing on the creativity of hair fashion was the Wella Trend Vision Awards 2015; for the first time, Australian and New Zealand finalists came together in the one Auckland venue to recreate their looks and vie for the top awards. I felt privileged to be included on the judging panel, with such industry stalwarts as Michael Beel (who we interview in Reigning Supreme on page 26), Adrian Barclay, Frank Apostolopoulos and Joey Scandizzo (how fabulous is Joey?). To swap notes and ideas with people whose work you've long admired is something really quite special. We include coverage of all the winners and finalists in our Trend Visionaries feature (page 36). New products in the beauty industry have also been coming through thick and fast and we've attended launches for skin care, make-up collections, spa products and brow enhancers over the past few months. Trialling some of these great innovations has certainly made updating my beauty kit for the spring/summer season easier...and a lot more fun. You'll see we've included some of our personal favourites this issue. The trend for beautifully groomed, thicker brows shows no sign of abating and we get some great tips from Billion Dollar Brows founder Natalie Plain, in Brow Queen (page 110). We also look at the top global cosmetic medicine trends in The Cosmetic Frontier (page 108) which makes for interesting reading. Who knew dermal fillers for the feet were gaining such popularity? Roll on summer and good luck for the busiest season of the year!
Charmaine For style inspiration and news, join us at facebook.com/headwaymagazine
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don’t go breaking my hair ESLABONDEXXTM, used in combination with in salon chemical services, prevents damage before it can even start creating new bonds while protecting the existing internal structure, delivering added elasticity, strength, enhanced condition and suppleness. The time for hair breakage is over.
Download the app and step into the world of Eslabondexx TM
hair 14
HEADWAY PROMOTION
s ’ l r u c a d n e i r f best
Joico Guest Artist Chinney Yeap talks about the exciting new Curl range from Joico
Q&A What are you enjoying most about using the new Joico Curl range? Most of all, I’m loving how manageable and soft the range makes the clients hair look and feel.
Can you tell us a little about the technology behind it? With curly hair more susceptable to stress and damage, Joico developed CurlRepairTechnology™ for this range; a really smart formulation that strengthens and repairs each hair inside and out. The technology includes a combination of Triple Oil Complex for moisture, Bio-Advanced Peptide Complex for repair and strength and Aqualastic™ technology, which helps enhance style retention.
What differentiates these products from other curl products you have used in the past? Some of the other products I’ve used in the past have created curls that are either dry, crunchy or sticky. I love that these products dry soft and touchable, which allows the hair to look natural yet controlled.
Which era is inspiring you in terms of ‘curl style’ this season? I’ve always been a big fan of the ‘fro - ask anyone! 60s through to 70s style - love! The bigger the better!
What do you think clients with curly hair will love most about Joico Curl? I know they will love the easy application and most are surprised at the softness of the finish when used correctly.
What would be your must-have product from the range?
Joico Curl Defining Contouring Foam Wax is my number one at the moment. Try pairing it with Joico K-Pak Colour Therapy Oil for extra shine and conditioning.
Tips for creating the perfect ‘curl’ style this season? Start by washing with Joico Curl Cleansing Sulfate-Free Shampoo and Curl Nourished Conditioner, then work Curl Defining Contouring Foam Wax into the hair. Take big sections and twist. You can either secure with a pin and diffuse for a more polished finish or just twist and let it dry naturally for a ‘wash and go’ on-the-run look. Joico’s technologically-advanced Curl range features 7 products all designed with curly girls in mind: Curl Cleansing Sulfate-Free Shampoo, Curl Crème Wash Sulfate-Free Co+ Wash, Curl Nourished Conditioner, Curl Refreshed Reanimating Mist, Curl Defining Contouring Foam Wax, Curl Controlling Anti-Frizz Styler & Curl Perfected Curl Correcting Milk Spray.
For more information, call 0800 456 426 JOICO.CO.NZ 15
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MOST WANTED There’s an edgy new brand on the block: R+Co describe themselves as a collective or ‘think tank’ of some of the most knowledgeable, forward-thinking salon/editorial hairstylists and educators in the business and they’ve created a product line to match. Unique, functional products that actually allow clients to replicate that salon look they love at home, with divine packaging to match. Included in the range is every single product that a hairdresser could possibly need in their kit. And each product embodies experimentation, design, artistry, passion and curiosity. Learn more at boutiquebrands.co.nz
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TEXTURE PLAY For the ultimate ‘bed head’ look this season, try TIGI Joyride Texturising Powder Balm. This thick balm breaks to a dry powder feel for control, de-frizzing and adding lived-in texture for easy styling and maximum versatility. From Dateline Imports.
SEASONAL spring updates
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TOP TOOLS From 60s retro, through to hot pink leopard and mauve lizard, powering up never looked so good with amika. Utilizing some of the most groundbreaking technology on the market, amika's unique tool offering include the Power Cloud Repair + Smooth Dryer, Mini Ionic Dryer and Mini Ceramic Styler and two Digital Titanium Stylers. Most popular is the 5P Titanium Interchangeable Curler, which offers five different sized barrels to create curls of any size or shape. Available from Dateline Imports.
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4
COLOUR CRUSH We love this beautiful brunette look for spring/summer from De Lorenzo’s latest Novacolor Collection, Urbane Rebel. Favouring a chic, chocolate hue with depth and style, the colour offers a hint of the carefree with a soft, barely-there golden-blonde flush through the mid-lengths and ends.
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HAIR THERAPY Fans of the Macadamia Natural Oil range will love that the line has expanded significantly to include a brand new professional care and treatment collection, along with 11 texture-based styling products. With macadamia oil containing the highest amount of Omega 7 than any other nut, the range is renowned for its nourishing, hydrating, strengthening and smoothing properties. Best of all, the products are exceptionally lightweight and non-greasy - perfect for all hair textures. Available from Dateline Imports.
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LOVE YOUR CURLS Add Joico’s new Curl range into your beauty regime and say goodbye to dryness, frizz and split ends. The 7-product curl defining range caters to different degrees of curl with ingredients that nourish, hydrate, strengthen and repair. Our favourite is Curl Controlling Anti-Frizz Styler, for reducing volume and celebrating natural texture.
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THE RUM DIARIES We're a little bit taken with these Bay Rum Splash-On Aftershave Lotions from Wahl's Traditional Barber series. Both can be used as a stimulating scalp tonic as well and contain refreshing menthol to leave the wearer feeling cleansed and invigorated. Available from Combined Salon Supplies.
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JUST BEACHY Enhance and maintain gorgeous summer hair colour with TIGI copyright©olour's new Kiss It gold and copper shades. The 6 radiant, ultra-feminine hues - 5 gloss shades and 1 creative shade - have been developed to flatter the complexion and add a beautifully rich shine. Available from Dateline Imports.
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INVISIBOBBLE New invisibobble from Crew Distributors has a traceless outcome which lies in its unique telephone cord shape. Wrapped around any hair type, it distributes the pressure around the circumference of the ponytail unevenly, allowing hair to be held strongly, without being too tight or too loose. This effect leads to a traceless result. The invisibobble’s smooth surface also treats hair with care and avoids the split ends which ordinarily arise from tying your hair up. Genius!
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PURE EVOLUTION With a colour palette specially designed for the New Zealand and Australian market, new Pure Evolve low-ammonia, PPD-free colour is the first biologically enhanced permanent colouring system formulated with exclusive Pure CPR (Colour Pigment Retention). The range contains certified organic extracts of green tea, aloe vera, thyme, horsetail and rosemary, plus argan oil for colour preservation. Available from Boutique Brands.
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TO THE RESCUE Professional Hair Brands introduce ESLABONDEXX, for hair protection during chemical treatments. Thanks to Niosome Protect Technology, ESLABONDEXX prevents damage before it can even start creating new bonds, whilst shielding the existing internal structure to deliver added elasticity, strength, enhanced condition and suppleness. The easy, 3-part synergistic system is the ideal colour partner for maintaining hair health.
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BRUNETTE BRILLIANCE Goldwell introduce their 'Perfect Beauty Service Collection', to keep clients in-love with their salon service and their hair. The four services - Rejuvenating Blonde, Pure Blonde, Flawless Brunette and Shimmering Ebony - each contain Goldwell's most advanced product innovations. Two of these innovations are brand new, including Nectaya Enriched Naturals for clients with 75 to 100% white hair and SilkLift Control; a high-performance lightener boosting up to seven levels of lift. Enriched with a new generation of direct dye pigments, it also provides powerful lift and tone control in one step.
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COLOUR CARE COCKTAIL L’Oréal Professionnel's most popular colour care collection just got better. Série expert Vitamino Color A-OX contains the most advanced formula technology of star ingredients to enhance and preserve colour radiance. This fixing and perfecting colour toolbox includes a Colour Radiance Protection & Perfecting Shampoo, Gel-Masque, 10-in-1 Multi-Tasking Spray, Sulfate-Free Soft Cleansing Shampoo and matching Masque, and superhero product, CC Cream for Blondes.
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MUSING WITH REDKEN Redken's style muses just keep getting hotter. Joining the already impressive collective is model and DJ Amber Le Bon. True rock royalty (as the daughter of Duran Duran's Simon Le Bon and supermodel Yasmin Le Bon) the in-demand DJ for some of the world's hottest fashion events says working with Redken is "so much fun. I had the best time shooting." As did British-born model, actress and face of Burberry, Suki Waterhouse. Known for her chic style and effortless cool, Redken describe their new muse as, "striking, multi-talented and dynamic. She brings a great energy to our brand." 18
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BLOWN AWAY Blow hair back into life with Fudge TRI-BLO - a shine, prime and protect blow dry spray. This triple action spray contains Invisi-shield technology so hair is invisibly supported, protected and ready for any style. The perfect foundation spray, TRI-BLO is also light, non-sticky and delivers extreme heat protection, strength and smoothness.
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FOR THE BOYS Fudge Full Hed Jelly Xpander is the full-fat alternative to skinny hair. A styling product targeting sparse, vulnerable hair, this densifying solution has been designed to reclaim the feeling of a full head of hair instantly. Levelling fibre density, this flexible formula with light hold gives a natural finish and unleashes hair's potential to be fuller.
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THERMO LOVE Care for hair when creating this season's lush waves with La Biosthetique Curl Protect & Style. This thermo-active spray gives hair elasticity and hold for long-lasting, defined curls whilst protecting hair from over-heating and damage.
LIFE FORCE Delivering a luxurious experience with superior results, Wella Professionals introduces the Elements range, a five-product care system that instantly repairs and prevents against keratin degradation. Free of sulfates, parabens and artificial colourants, Elements provides up to ten times more keratin protection for renewed hair vitality. Restoring, nourishing and hydrating, we love the refreshing fragrance of this line, with top notes of green basil, water lily, star fruit and mandarin.
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REDKEN OBSESSED The Redken Obsession show in July offered a night of colour and design brilliance, courtesy of industry greats and legendary Redken Artists, Kristina Russell and Philip Barwick. Focusing on the 'obsession' with the latest cuts and on-trend hair art, Kristina showcased a myriad of edgy shade combinations, while Philip used his scissors to create a range of fashion-forward, cutting-edge techniques. Pictured are two of our favourite looks from the evening.
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FRESHEN UP We love Instant Rockstar Dirty Weekend Dry Shampoo - a dry, weightless, texturiser that prolongs the life of your hair style whilst absorbing oils or product build-up. Available in three shades, Light, Medium/Brown and Dark, to ensure a colour match for everyone's needs, use this handy styler in between washes or layer over freshly styled hair for extra volume, texture and revitalisation. From Beauty Products Direct.
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SHAKE IT OFF Get on the fast-track to soft, sexy, tousled waves with Joico Hair Shake. This invisible, lightweight, liquid to powder hybrid spray instantly delivers volume, thickness and plush texture to all hair types.
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PROFILE
Q&A KEVIN'S FAVOURITES BOOK: Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts. RESTAURANT: I love Lucie Liu in Melbourne. I eat there as often as I can when I’m home. OUTFIT: Prada. FRAGRANCE: Bois d’Argent by Christian Dior. CHILL-OUT TIME: Staying home watching movies on the couch. MOVIE: Shampoo HAIRDRESSING ICON: Mark Lopez. He was a great hairdresser from the 90's at the head of the 'supermodel trend' and created very sexy 'done' but lived-in styles.
Where do you draw inspiration from and what’s inspiring you currently? I draw inspiration from everywhere. I think inspiration is all around; from the street to the movies, old television shows and even paintings. I think inspiration is about having your mind and eyes open all the time to see that you are surrounded by things that can inspire you. The hard part is to pick the idea you like the most.
What’s a working week like for you? Hectic is probably one word that best describes my week. Depending on the time of year, it can include approving product samples, creating looks for runway shows and organizing and planning shoots, all of this while travelling around the world!
MASTER OF STYLE
kevin murphy
Five minutes with session styling and product guru, Kevin Murphy
A
master of his profession, no one understands the transformative power of hair better than Kevin Murphy. His work has graced the covers of all the major global print publications and he has directed hair teams for countless high-profile fashion houses. In 2007, Kevin was awarded the Australian Masters Award at the AHFA's for his outstanding contributions to the profile of Australian hairdressing worldwide. Working on shoots and fashion shows, Kevin found that as the day progressed, the models’ hair became heavy, dull and lifeless, and there were no styling products on the market that fulfilled his needs as an editorial stylist… so, he created his own, and in answering his own needs as a stylist, he developed the KEVIN.MURPHY range of products that were easy to use and crossed over to consumers perfectly. We talk to the session master to learn more about what makes him tick.
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Who are your favourite fashion designers? I have three favourite designers from Australia: Martin Grant - originally from Melbourne and now based out of Paris; Nevenka from Melbourne and I love Strateas Carlucci for menswear.
What has been your proudest career moment so far? In the world of fashion you are only as good as your last job, and every time you work on a shoot you have to put your heart and soul into it. It's a bit like falling in love so it’s very hard to decide what your favourite moment is. If I had to choose it would be a shoot I did for Vogue that was based on a Bondi Beach girl with Abby Lee. It was great to shoot a very Australian theme that was high-fashion, and Abby gives the clothes an edge that no one else can.
Which cities do you find most inspiring? Presently, I’m in Prague shooting our latest COLOR. ME campaign so I’m really inspired by Prague because of its unusual history and diverse culture. The city is full of amazing architecture and opulent castles that are all pretty much empty and the city is so well-preserved it's like stepping back in time.
Images courtesy of Luis Murphy, photographer.
GUILTY PLEASURE: A good Pinot Noir.
“I think inspiration is about having your mind and eyes open all the time to see that you are surrounded by things that can inspire you.” How would you describe your hairdressing style? Natural would be the word that comes to mind but I do like to push the envelope when it comes to styling. I always seem to go back to the 50s and 60s but I’m also kind of trapped in the 90s, so I love having lots of different elements going on in one style but still keep it timeless, which is a contradiction in itself - but fashion is always full of contradictions.
What's your creative process when you start working on a collection? I normally start by looking at pictorial books or photography books in shops and when I see something that catches my eye, I start to research where the book came from, who’s in it and it all explodes from there. Most of the time your original inspiration is very far from the final result.
Which hair looks do you love right now? The 1970s have had a big influence on fashion for the last two years and it's not going away. I love the cuts of the 70s. The difference in the styles now is that we have products and a good understanding of how to cut hair naturally,
which they did not really know how to do back then. The cuts do have a 70s mood but they are so much more than Brady Bunch looks.
What's the best thing about your job? What I love most about my job is that I get to work at what I’m passionate about and I get to make a difference in people’s lives. Every day is a creative day and I really enjoy working on projects that involve packaging, point-of-sale and design, as well as what goes inside the bottles
Where does the idea or concept come from initially when you decide to create a new product for the KEVIN.MURPHY brand? The inspiration can come from anywhere. For example, the inspiration for COLOR.BUG came during a trip to India during the Festival of Colours. Women were using powdered pigments to colour their hair. I brought some back with me and used it on an editorial I was working on. I loved the results and that was the birth of COLOR.BUG.
What are your personal ‘can’t live without’ products
and tools? My all time favourite product is ANTI.GRAVITY. It was one of the first products I ever made and it is my go-to on shoots because it has hold but is weightless and invisible. The product allows you to change the hair really quickly and change back really quick. SESSION.SPRAY is something I use on every shoot and I can't do without my tiny pure boar STYLING.BRUSH.
What do you know now that you wish you’d known when you first started hairdressing? That it’s important to seek out and work with people who know more than you do, or people who know how to do the things that you don't. I surround myself with those types of people and it makes a difference in what I’m capable of achieving and takes me beyond my limitations.
What would you like to see more of in the hairdressing industry and less of? I would definitely love to see more curl and natural textures, I’m all about textures right now. What I would like to see less of, probably cuckoo clocks in the hair! 21
FOCUS
cover
STORY
Bond girl Eva Green introduces us to L’Oréal Professionnel’s breakthrough innovation – Pro Fiber
D
amage is cited as the number one hair concern globally, which is no surprise considering we're a generation of overheated-electrical-appliance-loving obsessives. According to L’Oréal, 57% of women today are embracing longer hair, yet with every 12cm of hair having endured twelve months of heat styling, abrasive brushing and UV exposure, the hair fibre is prone to breakage and difficult to manage. Enter the game-changer. With over 15 years of research behind it and 15 patents pending, L’Oréal Professionnel introduces Pro Fiber to their haircare portfolio. Cited as a ‘haircure’ that cares for hair like a manicure cares for hands, Pro Fiber is the first long-lasting, recharging haircare treatment programme to prevent multi levels of damage across all hair types. Pro Fiber actually stops and reverses 22
the deterioration process, combatting dullness, dryness, split ends and colour fade. The ground-breaker – APTYL 100 – was developed by L'Oréal’s research laboratories; a revolutionary damagerepairing molecule and their first ever technology capable of long-lasting repair of the hair fibre. Thanks to APTYL 100, the complex can be reactivated for up to 4 washes and recharged at home for up to 6 weeks. The performance of the APTYL 100 allows for an unprecedented performance in three steps: instant in-salon regeneration, at-home reactivation for up to 4 shampoos, and extended results for up to 6 weeks with the heart of the Pro Fiber routine – Re-Charge. How does the programme work? After first assessing a client’s individual level of hair damage, based on L'Oréal’s Hair Damage Profiler diagnosis result, the protocol includes a layering technique and the
application of Regenerate Long-lasting Care Activator, the extraordinary APTYL 100 molecular complex. The at-home Pro Fiber routine prolongs the effects of the APTYL 100 molecular complex on the hair fibre. During each shampoo, the treatment is reactivated. Each of the three ranges have been designed to treat a specific level of hair damage: Revive, Restore and Recover. But at the heart of each at-home Pro Fiber routine is the Re-Charge booster. This cutting-edge technology works with APTYL 100 to fortify the hair fibre from within and instantly resurface for softer, smoother hair. After every 4th shampoo, clients should use Re-Charge in place of their Pro Fiber conditioner or masque to prolong the beautiful effects of their in-salon treatment. The tagline for this exciting new range says it all: 'Rectify. Restore. Reconstruct.' We can't wait to try it!
FOCUS
colour by
KEVIN
Kevin Murphy lovers can rejoice as the session guru releases his new colour range
C
OLOR.ME by KEVIN.MURPHY has just launched into the New Zealand market, a performance-driven, easy to use colour range. Born from Kevin’s vision of fusing session work, fashion and hair colour, the compact colour line delivers natural-looking results with optimum colour functionality. In keeping with the brand’s heritage, COLOR.ME also features an artful blend of gentle, natural ingredients to moisturise and rejuvenate hair while imparting shine. “What goes inside the tube is just as important to me as the colour it creates,” says Kevin. “The choices we made are PPD and ammonia-free, using naturally-derived ingredients like shea butter, pomegranate, aloe vera and honey. Product performance is also very important to me: 100% grey coverage was a definite, as well as having multi-tonal effects, and making the range small and flexible were features that I thought were absolutely essential.” Allowing colourists both creativity and control, the line’s formulas are streamlined with clean, easy-to-navigate packaging, offering colourists the ability to quickly identify shade families. COLOR.ME launches with 74 honey-based, versatile shades. Colourists have the ability to mix shades and create custom colours that are semi, demi or permanent based on client needs. There are five variations of Cream Activator, two variations of Powder Lightener that support the neutralisation of yellow effects whilst providing clear blonde results (ideal for highlights), and a Cream Lightener for an alternative to the powder formula.
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The carefully formulated colours feature a three-step technology: Molecular Couple Guarantee means an exact counting method is used to guarantee that all colouring molecules form secure bonds, lessening skin irritations and/or allergic reactions; Oxidation Delay Function helps delay the oxidation process when the Cream Activator is added to the COLOR.ME shade, allowing even and precise application and colour coverage; and Micro-Pigments mean that extremely small colour pigments are deposited onto the hair, penetrating deep into the hair shaft for shinier, healthier-looking hair. Feedback has been overwhelmingly positive, with Europe’s Director of Education, Michael Jung commenting; “I have never worked with a lightening product that adheres to the hair so safely and easily...this is why it is my #1 choice for creative techniques.” Thorston Eiblmair, owner of top German salon Toto-Haare, says that, “with the clear tone, I can now offer sun that comes out of a tube. In just 20 minutes, I can give every hair colour that sun-kissed effect.” COLOR.ME by KEVIN.MURPHY is available now from Crew Distributors.
no kinks after wearing a ponytail avoids headaches unique tool for pin-less updos no split ends hygienic non-soaking material strong hold
Crew Distributors 0800 CREW66 info@crewdistributors.co.nz
PROFILE
W
hat was going through your mind when you were announced Hair Expo NZ Hairdresser
of the Year?
It was so surreal. I’ve been aiming for that accolade for many years and when they announced my name I was like, "Are you sure?" Then, "Oh my god, it's me!" Then, "Oh no, I’ve got to say a speech" and I didn’t have one prepared. Admittedly, it took a few days to sink in after the champagne hangover wore off!
What did it mean to you to win this award? And what kind of feedback have you received since your win? Winning the award has been a career goal for over 10 years. I’ve entered 10 times, been a finalist for 5 and finally won this year. It's just so great that I can finally tick that box. Clients have been overthe-moon and it has been wonderful to see the industry come out and cheer and support.
What has the journey been like for you getting to this point? An Expo win isn’t just about producing an amazing photographic collection. You have to give back, work hard and be a leader in many areas throughout the whole year. Once you are a finalist, it's really anyone's game and the finalists this year all deserved to win. I give up my weekends continuously for my craft (which annoys my partner sometimes!), do most things for free and give back to our industry time and time again. It's more than my job...it's my career, my hobby and my life.
How did your career begin and how did you progress to where you are today?
REIGNING
supreme
Winning Hair Expo New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year 2015 was a well-earned dream come true for Buoy Hairdressing Creative Director, Michael Beel. Here, Michael shares with us the journey of his success 26
I fell into hairdressing 18 years ago when I was offered a part-time job in a Rodney Wayne salon in Dunedin while I was studying Marketing and Psychology. Wanting more drinking money, I took it and absolutely loved the salon environment and clients. I dropped out of University 6 months later and started an apprenticeship at age 20. I concentrated on being the best hairdresser I could possibly be. The salon owner in Dunedin bought a salon in Lower Hutt and I moved to help her get the business up and running. I then took a new path at Buoy in Wellington's CBD and was introduced to a more editorial and photographic type of world, which I absolutely loved. I had to relearn my craft, up-skill and I entered as many things as I could to get my name out there as much as possible. I started winning or becoming a finalist in many national photographic awards which in turn, lifted my profile more. I was then offered a role on the ghd team for New Zealand with Sara Allsop and Iain Smith. My journey to work backstage at my first ever Australian Fashion Week six years ago opened up the whole world of catwalk editorial hair to me…and now I’m hooked! I love the vibe, intensity and adrenalin rush of backstage and I also love the photographic magazine editorial world. Editorial hair and ‘hairdressed' hair are two completely different worlds.
What do you think are the best things about being in the New Zealand hairdressing industry? That we have some amazing creative talent in our industry that share and give back. I'm in awe of people like Sara Allsop and Jock Robson who create avenues for hairdressers, especially our youth, and push our industry to be better. I’m glad I’m one of their good friends. Our industry is becoming a more collaborative one and it's only when we work together, minus the political ties and product company associations, that we as an industry will grow and show the public that we deserve to charge the prices we do and that we are true creative professionals with their self-esteem in our hands.
MICHAEL'S FAVOURITES BOX-SET: Downton Abbey BOOK: Grace, A Memoir by Grace Coddington ACTOR: Cate Blanchett GADGET: IPhone OUTFIT: Anything black INDULGENCE: Cheesecake SCENT: Prada VACATION SPOT: Paris. I've been twice and I adore it! CELEBRITY CRUSH: Ricky Martin! OMG, I love him!!
Where would you like to see our industry progress to?
Any embarrassing career moments you'd be willing to share?
A more collaborative industry as mentioned above but one that also lifts its skills and gets rid of the cheap undercutting pricing structures and package websites. That stuff hurts our industry so much!
I'd only been hairdressing for 4 months and one of my friends wanted a haircut. We had been drinking so my confidence levels were high. I picked up a pair of scissors and started cutting her hair. Now, my friend has curly hair which started to bounce up big time and go in all different directions. Halfway through I realised I was way out of my depth and my friend was screaming at me, peaking out majorly. I had to phone my senior friend who lived around the corner and she came over and rescued me. It started off before my cut as a long, curly bob but ended up almost like an Afro because I butchered it so much. My friend forgave me and I ended up doing her wedding hair 15 years later but that story still made it into the wedding speech. Once again, I’m sorry Sheryl!
How did you transition through to editorial and session styling and what would your advice be to those looking to follow your lead? I started by assisting on shoots and shows and soaking up as much knowledge as I could possibly get. I would then go home in the weekend and practice what I had seen on a mannequin head. I offered my help free and then I started to be approached myself to do small things which I did for experience. The opportunities gradually got bigger and bigger and the first time I directed a show at NZ Fashion Week I thought, oh hell this isn’t play time anymore! That designer was WORLD and if anyone has seen images from a WORLD catwalk show, they are all about creating a statement with hair and makeup. Hairpieces and wigs for Africa. So my first show wasn’t exactly an easy ponytail! For those that want to get more into that area, offer up your services for free to local photographers and designers and build up a photographic portfolio. This also shows you what works and what doesn’t. Ask to assist a hairdresser you love and admire. If you hound enough, can be a team player and are happy to do the grunt work for a beer at the end of the day, you may get the call up to help on a shoot or a show.
What have been your biggest highlights working backstage at New York Fashion Week and what are the most important lessons you've learnt? Working on a show and seeing Anna Wintour and Grace Coddington come backstage to look at the collection before it went out on the runway. Seeing these two iconic women of the fashion world view hair that you helped create was awesome. The biggest lesson I’ve learnt is to be a team player. You may just be passing up bobby pins or actually doing the hair...both are equally important jobs.
Which hair artists and fashion designers continue to inspire you? In New Zealand, WORLD, Zambesi and Sara Allsop all are leaders in their fields and march to the beat of their own drum. Internationally, I admire Alexander McQueen and Guido for the same reasons. They lead and others follow.
What are your current product obsessions? L'Oréal Tecni.Art Crêpage de Chignon, a great dry texturising spray, and ghd's Platinum Styler - so easy, so quick and creates great movement. Also, KY Jelly for the ultimate wet look.
What do you think people would be surprised to know about you? I'm the eldest out of 8 brothers and sisters and I have 7 nieces and nephews but that figure feels like it grows every week sometimes!
Which shapes and colours are you looking forward to creating this summer? I like to create hair that looks expensive: a great precision cut, glossy rich colour and a great blowout that will last for three or four days minimum. I personally prefer blondes not too ash and am enjoying creating haircuts that have a strong outline but a soft diffused interior. The health of my clients hair is paramount, so treatments and shine gloss services will be a major focus.
What's inspiring you as an artist right now? Instagram is my inspiration tool I use every day. I love seeing what hairdressers, designers, makeup artists, models and magazines are doing and I’m inspired every single day. When I comment on someone iconic that I follow and they respond or like one of my images, I get a little kick out of that. Follow me @msbeel
What is your next big goal? My next goal is to complete an online 4-month mentoring program with the amazing Sam McKnight which began last month, and I’m hoping to head back overseas to New York Fashion Week in February next year. 27
FOCUS
HAIR COLOUR'S
holy grail
Olaplex has hit cult status around the world, bringing new freedom for colourists. So what exactly is this miracle treatment and why does celebrity colourist Tracey Cunningham describe it as having 'superpowers'? We find out more.
T
here’s been a revolution happening in the hairdressing world and it goes by the name of Olaplex. Remember when Kim Kardashian had her super-famous blonde moment? Olaplex. Seeing brunettes around the world popping up with lightened locks, but no hint of the straw-like texture bleach normally afflicts upon dark hair? Olaplex. Celebrated Hollywood colourist, Tracey Cunningham, is a Global Ambassador for the brand and has been using Olaplex consistently on her celebrity clientele: a dizzyingly glamorous list that includes the likes of Kate Beckinsale, Jennifer Lopez, Reese Witherspoon, Gwyneth Paltrow, Emma Stone and Jessica Biel, to name a few. The owner of Meche salon in Beverly Hills describes Olaplex as “the most revolutionary product I have seen” and declares it has “superpowers”. It appears many others are in agreement: just four months after Olaplex hit the market, it was already being used in 7000 salons. Today, Olaplex is in more than 100,000 salons worldwide. Why has Olaplex hit such a cult status? Because it doesn’t just protect your hair; it actually improves hair integrity during the lightening process. Colourists can be set free from the fear of damaged hair and can push the envelope further than before. From permanent colour to balayage, Olaplex multiplies bonds to make hair stronger and healthier, while colour lasts longer with more vibrancy. For the uninitiated, Olaplex was created just over a year ago in California. The founders commissioned two world-leading PhDs in Materials and Chemistry who had never worked on hair products before, Dr. Eric Pressly and Dr. Craig Hawker, to find a way to stop chemical treatments from damaging hair. Using their fresh perspective, this dream team invented a single ingredient chemistry, one that is free of silicone or oils, which links broken bonds in the hair during and after chemical services to make them stronger than they were before. But the proof is in the pudding: top colourists, such as Tracey Cunningham, are raving about the results from Olaplex all over social media. When we met with the bubbly hairstylist herself at Auckland's stylish Sugar Club, Tracey was adamant that she has never been so excited by a new product before, commenting that, 28
Olaplex can be offered as a new salon service, either as a stand-alone permanent repair treatment, or as an anti-breakage upgrade to technical services such as keratin smoothing, chemical relaxing and perms. To support all Olaplex in-salon services, include the professional Olaplex No.3 Hair Perfector, a take-home for clients to use once a week to strengthen hair further, or to use as a pre-treatment to a future chemical service.
"it's so different from anything I have ever seen, and I've seen a lot of new products in my time as a colourist. Olaplex allows you to give your clients the most exciting hair colour work which you usually couldn't perform without breaking and damaging the hair. The sophisticated chemistry behind Olaplex, the patents - they just can't be replicated by the imitators." "I use Olaplex on absolutely everyone," continues Tracey. "I love the happiness that it brings to clients, especially those with really damaged hair. They just can't believe that their hair has been saved. There are so many benefits to using this treatment - it leaves hair looking absolutely amazing: full of life, bounce, strength and incredible shine." "I had an experience where a new client walked in and her hair was so damaged it started falling out as we were brushing it. I said, 'We have to do the Olaplex treatment on you. I’m sending you home with Olaplex No.3 and I want you to put it on your hair for two weeks and then book back in with me'. She was actually really upset but we have so many clients who keep wanting to go blonder all the time, what can you do? She went away, used the Olaplex treatment and came back totally amazed with completely transformed hair." "I also love that when a client comes in and wants to be really blonde on the ends and she already has highlights on the bottom, I’m able to really balayage it and give her those lighter pieces she wants. It's a lot of fun." Tracey became an Ambassador for Olaplex solely because she is so passionate about the product and was actually one of the very first people to test it. When founder Dean Christal discovered that Olaplex worked in bleach, Tracey was first on his list to trial it. The 'wow' factor hit home after her very first client treatment and Tracey instantly started Instagramming her love for it. "If you go on Instagram’s hashtags, there are over 250,000 for #Olaplex because people love it so much and that’s organic. That’s not a big PR firm telling you to go buy this product, it’s people falling in love with the product just like I did."
“It doesn’t just protect your hair; it actually improves hair integrity during the lightening process”
&Tested
Tried
Being pampered by the expert team at Auckland's D&M Hair Design is always a treat but I was especially excited when I turned up for my much-lauded Olaplex experience. Not exactly a 'natural' blonde, this was the perfect service for someone like me, who undergoes a rigorous regime of blonde highlights every 7 weeks. The team have been working with Olaplex since March and co-owner Danny Pato is enthusiastic about the results and the feedback he has been getting. “We can do so much more now with colour than what's been possible before," he said. "If someone wants to go from dark brown to platinum blonde in one sitting, we can do it knowing that the hair will stay in healthy condition.” Post-treatment, my newly lightened locks looked and felt incredible. My hair was softer, smoother, and I continued to receive compliments for several weeks on its condition and shine. I also noticed less 'shedding' of hair and far fewer strands of hair furled up my comb than usual, which was a bonus. Danny explained that Olaplex can be used “in so many ways, including in any colour or as part of a keratin smoothing service, as it cross-links the disulphide bonds in hair that break down with chemical services, heat styling, UV exposure and mechanical damage. But Olaplex is most impressive when bleaching - the hair actually feels better when you've finished bleaching it!” Charmaine Guest
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PROFILE
COLOUR
confidential
As a colour specialist and owner of Morgan & Morgan Urban Retreat in Auckland's Takapuna, Jennifer Morgan has almost 30 years experience in the hairdressing industry. She shares her love of education and offers some advice for aspiring colourists BEGINNINGS In the lead up to my career in hairdressing I was quite academic at school but had a real interest in the creative arts. Back in my day there were not many options in creative fields so I went to university to study law. I was a terrible student and I simply fell into a job in a salon helping out over the summer...and never looked back. I joined L’Oréal early in my career as a colour technician and so when I went back to the salon, it made complete sense to follow my passion and utilize my training to specialize in colour. I love it as I believe colour makes the biggest difference to the hair and it has unending creative options. Anything is possible with colour as long as you have the time and the technical knowledge. It’s nearly 30 years ago that I started in the industry with Rodney Wayne. To this day, I believe it gave me the best start possible and I still credit the training I received through the amazing people I worked with (such as Jo May, Dennis Langford and Rodney) as part of the reason for my success. When I was 20 years old I opened my first salon. I hadn't even qualified yet, which was definitely a high and a low of my career. My thought process was, "How hard can this be?" and it turned out that it was much harder than I imagined. I had that business for three years and then sold it and joined L’Oréal. Initially I was a technician, then the Technical Manager, then went onto event management with Colour Trophy and finally worked in marketing and PR with Redken. L’Oréal taught me everything I could ever need to know about colour, plus I learned the skills needed to run a successful business.
EDUCATION All along the way I have been involved in education. I started as an ‘Associate Educator’ for Redken, teaching and helping with shows at 21 years old and I have never stopped. My passion is for the classroom rather than the 30
stage. There are far more talented creatives out there who love the platform work. I just love to share my almost 30 years of experience - and hopefully facilitate learning for young hairdressers When I first started in the industry we had three product categories - permanent tint, semi-permanent (six washes) and bleach. We did cap highlights or permanent colour and that was it. Every change and innovation that makes up the colour menu today has evolved over the course of my career. I have always been interested and involved in progressing our craft through new ideas and techniques. The most important advice I would give to someone starting out as a colourist is being 100% grounded in the product science. Creativity is very important, but I feel like that is the natural part. We are in a creative industry and I find it easy to come up with ideas and inspiration for techniques - but if you do not have 100 per cent confidence in your technical knowledge then it doesn't matter how clever or creative you are. L’Oréal provided me with an extraordinary opportunity to learn about the science of hair colour; without it I would not have the confidence and understanding I have today. Once you have the chemistry sorted then it's about challenging yourself to try new things. It's so easy to stick with ideas and techniques that are safe, so branching out is a constant challenge. Last, learn how to master the art of an exceptionally amazing consultation. It will set you up for success.
“Every change and innovation that makes up the colour menu today has evolved over the course of my career. I have always been interested and involved in progressing our craft through new ideas and techniques.” SUMMER SHADES This spring/summer season the prettiest colours have a rich and impactful healthy, shiny global colour at the root area that is accented with lightness or texture along the lengths. We are creating a lot of copper, chestnut, strawberry and red colours but weaving in golden or pale peach accents to accentuate the cut or to highlight the lengths. Brunettes are both golden and natural with coffee, honey or caramel lights - or mono-tonal and deep. Nothing says healthy hair more than a solid, rich, shiny chocolate brown. The latest buzz word is sombre, which is a softer version of ombré. For the season, blondes are soft and there are a lot more natural golden tones coming through. Unless the look is a full-head platinum then blondes should look like they could be natural. But there is still a strong trend for the 'in-your-face' platinum and as long as the hair can handle the process, it’s a great statement colour for summer. We have seen no let-up in the demand for pastel tones. This has almost become a mainstream option rather than a fashion trend and it’s starting to cross over all age groups in the salon as well. Soft pink, lilac, pale blue and grey are now a daily occurrence in the salon. From my experience in the industry and specifically as a colourist, I have picked up a few key do's and don’ts of colour...
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ever compromise the condition of the hair to achieve a result. There is no such N thing as a great colour if the hair is destroyed in the process. I try to stay with two to three levels lighter or darker than the client’s natural colour rather than stretching this out too far. It is better for the overall condition of the hair and much more likely to grow out nicely. Learn how to explain yourself clearly and how to say ‘NO’. By giving your clients more information about what you are going to do in a way that they can understand, it will enable you to create great results which are going to suit their hair type and texture, lifestyle and aesthetic. If you have doubts about whether or not you can achieve a result, you need to be able to communicate that with your client. Sometimes it is ok to say ‘no' and provide an alternative option.
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FOCUS
THE FASHION WEEK f iles
F
Kate Sylvester
Rodney Wayne Creative Director and Redken Artist, Richard Kavanagh, takes us through his diary at the hair helm of New Zealand Fashion Week Zambesi
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Zambesi
ashion Week glamour, parties, beautiful girls, amazing clothes, hair, makeup and magic, right? Here’s the reality: 18 to 20 hour days trying to make 25 girls with wildly different hair all look as similar as possible. It’s a huge week with a team of 20 different hairdressers, all with different strengths and experience levels, trying to execute a brand new look at an international level just shown to them. It starts with a phone call from Mike Bruce, General Manager of Redken New Zealand.“Rich, we’d love to bring you over to work with the team on NZFW shows.” Excited and flattered, I accept and reach out to the Rodney Wayne Artistic Team to let them know that there’s a chance to work on some fashion week shows. The week before I travel there are several emails and phone calls with designers (Zambesi, Stolen Girlfriends Club and Kate Sylvester) to gather an idea of the direction of their collections and get the dialogue going. There’s also the final judging of the HITO collaboration with fashion week which I’m involved in. On Sunday before fashion week, I pack my kit and fly to Auckland.
MONDAY It’s off to Zambesi to work out the hair look for the show. The collection is beautiful, ethereal, structured, whimsical and luxurious all at the same time; one of the best Zambesi collections I’ve seen. I do a hair look on one of the girls from the workroom while Kiekie Stanners from MAC does her makeup test on the model. Liz, Marissa and Dayne from Zambesi all love the hair and everyone is pleasantly surprised that it’s right first time with no revisions. We all decide we are mad for this hair and lock it in. From there we talk through some of the logistics and expectations. That’s followed by a meeting with Andrew from Rodney Wayne Manners Mall in Wellington. His role is to be my extra brain and hands, to look after my kit and keep track of time as there are multiple commitments and distractions during the week. We wrap our briefing just in time to head to the Viaduct Events Centre for the opening night of fashion week where the winners of the HITO competition are announced. After this I can properly meet the mentees of the HITO competition and talk to Hannah, the apprentice hairdresser I’ll be mentoring, about her upcoming shoot and show. By now it’s nearly 9pm and we go to Stolen Girlfriends Club HQ for their show’s hair test. After a detailed conversation with Zara Mirkin, the show stylist, we have a plan. Wanting to add a sense of luxury to the show, which will be held in a grungy theatre with quite a rock 'n' roll vibe - and to help elevate the girls to supermodel status - we keep the hair simple and polished but still very effortless.
Stolen Girlfriends Club
TUESDAY It’s an early start at the Viaduct Events Centre to lead the Rodney Wayne team on the Choose Wool group show. My HITO mentee Hannah and stylists from Rodney Wayne salons around the country are working on this show which has a sport luxe wet-look hairstyle. It’s three hours of prep for a 15 minute show, then we head over to the Rodney Wayne office for a planning meeting for the upcoming campaign shoot and to make video tutorials for the Zambesi show.
WEDNESDAY The morning starts with a 6am call time on location to start hair and makeup for the HITO shoot. Then it’s straight back to Zambesi as there’s been a rethink about the hair and makeup look - thankfully they still love the hair I designed. From there Andrew and I head down to the St James to check out the venue for the Stolen Girlfriends Club show. Models start arriving, the team gets in and sets up and I demonstrate the look in one of the venue’s tiny rooms. Chaos ensues, fuses blow and models get their final touches in the narrow corridors. Halfway through the show, true to the rock 'n' roll form of Stolen Girlfriends Club, one of the models stage dives off the catwalk and crowd surfs back to carry on her walk. As soon as the show finishes, there’s a photoshoot with 10 girls in the best outfits. I’m on set with my Makita wind machine trying to do a shoot amongst throngs of drinking punters. I think I deserve a beer at this point.
THURSDAY I’m nervous as I have to be in two places at once - on stage at Westfield Manukau and backstage at Zambesi. I decide that I’d like to do a run-through of the hair look with a few of the key personnel from the Zambesi team. We meet at the Redken Academy and I show them the video, talk through the look and coach them through some of the key techniques and subtle applications of product to get the hair right. With the team satisfied they can execute the hair, I blast off out to Manukau. We have five models for the VIP Style Workshop and I have prepared a 15 minute presentation on summer hair trends. I’m co-hosting with Stephanie Rumble - she’s super-organized and has great energy. I finish my presentation then quietly slip out and jump in a cab back to the Viaduct. At the Zambesi show everything is calm and under control. The hair prep is going perfectly and I can start doing the finishing touches just in time for the girls to get dressed. The show finishes at 10pm - I will be in bed before midnight.
FRIDAY All I have is an afternoon meeting at 2pm and the Kate Sylvester show. Kate’s show is a replica of the Romeo 4 Juliet show she presented at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Australia in Sydney this year, which I also did the hair for, so it’s relatively easy. I demonstrate the looks to the team and they crack into it, executing the hair beautifully. Saturday is spent packing boxes for a charity project I’m working on then a flight back to Sydney for a well-earned day off on Sunday. Then, it's right into planning and prep for the upcoming Rodney Wayne summer campaign. And they say it’s glamorous…
Kate Sylvester
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HEADWAY PROMOTION
Moving
on up General Manager of Dateline Imports, Troy Little, talks about the company’s purpose-built, stylish new premises
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hat prompted Dateline’s move to a new premises and a brand new building?
The old building was never ours and didn’t truly reflect the new culture of the company. I had the opportunity to build something from scratch that reflected the current image and profile of the company and its people. I kept this a secret from everyone until the building was almost completed as a surprise. A fresh start is always a good feeling and gave us a chance to clear out years of hoarding. We have started in our new space with almost everything new, so it’s a real pleasure spending time here.
What was most important to you in terms of design, flow and space? I wanted an energy-efficient, environmentallyfriendly space that included chill-out zones for the team and customers, whilst providing a state-of-the-art warehouse that would see the business into the future. I also wanted to achieve something aspirational in terms of the design and materials used, and a large garden and green space was very important to me. We are still developing the landscaping as the planting starts to find its feet and mature. We have used a fully-recycled water system, energy-efficient LED lighting and heating sources. I wanted the space to feel modern and café-like so our team felt great about coming to work and customers always feel welcome visiting. We did all the design work ourselves, with the help of ECC for the lighting in reception. I’m a huge fan of Tom Dixon so the huge copper balls make a great statement when you 34
arrive. We have an amazing kitchen downstairs that really feels like you’re at home enjoying a big family lunch some days. Friday BBQ’s for the office are our regular favourite and I always seem to be the one covered in BBQ smoke! We have a second kitchen upstairs attached to the boardroom for entertaining customers. We are also lucky enough to have incorporated an education development studio into the building too.
choose from and we are really lucky to have the Millennium Sports Institute on our doorstep so the team can incorporate exercise into their day. Everything is brand new, right down to the toaster. The bathrooms are a bit of a hit also, with scented oils and heated floors.
What is the philosophy of Dateline as a company?
Dateline is evolving every single day. Like for all businesses, the world is changing rapidly and so is technology. We love exploring what’s the next big idea or opportunity for hairdressers. We live in a global market so new is never new for long. We are about to launch Jennifer Aniston’s own range of products, Living Proof. This is very exciting for our team as obviously she’s a celebrity we all know and love but most importantly, her concept of developing a range of gorgeous products that have ingredients never used or seen in haircare is a really exciting opportunity for salons and consumers.
Work hard, have fun and be successful.
What do you think customers will enjoy most about the new space and what has the feedback been like so far? It’s really light and warm and a great place to shop. The feedback has been amazing from everybody - we should have done it years ago.
What’s the Dateline team loving most about working in the new environment? The location is vibrant and alive with a multitude of cafes to
What’s next for Dateline and what are you most excited about in terms of the future of the company?
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NZ AWARDS
Wella’s annual Trend Vision Awards celebrated the best of NZ and Australian talent in one big showcase
KYLIE HAYES
BRAD LEPPER
MIKAELA EDWARDS
BETH ROBINSON
MANA DAVE
DUNCAN MOSS
trend
VISIONARIES 36
I
t was the Wella Trend Vision Final of all finals: 40 New Zealand and Australian competitors coming together under the one roof in Auckland to recreate their looks in the hopes of taking out their country’s top spots. It was a real honour to join such a stellar line-up of judges for this event: Australian superstar hairdressers Joey Scandizzo, Frank Apostolopoulos, Alfredo Cappella, Renya Xydis and Marie Uva, along with the lovely Hayley Miller – editor of Culture magazine – and Managing Director of Toni&Guy Australia, Dennis Langford. For the New Zealand judging contingent, I was joined by our own top hairdressers, Michael Beel and Adrian Barclay. Suffice to say, with a group of personalities like this, there were a lot of laughs. Best of all was meeting each of the finalists and having the opportunity to watch them work their magic, making their photographic looks come alive right before our eyes. The standard of the work this year was truly impressive, yet there could only be one New Zealand winner for each of the two Trend Vision categories.
THE JUDGING PANEL
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Coming out on top was Kylie Hayes from Moha Hairdressing in Dunedin, who won Gold in the Colour Vision category for her edgy and precise platinum look. Outstanding colour work also earned French Revolver Studio’s Brad Lepper the Silver Award for Colour Vision, while Mana Dave from Blaze took Bronze. The Young Talent spotlight shone brightly upon Mikaela Edwards from Runway in Gore, who was awarded Young Talent Gold for her beautifully recreated look, while Beth Robinson and Duncan Moss did Servilles proud, by winning the Silver and Bronze awards in this category respectively. Congratulations also go out to Marque Morehu from Sutherland Todd Hairdressing, who won Apprentice of the Year, and Servilles Newmarket who were honoured with the Salon Team Award. The work from the Australian finalists was equally awe-inspiring. Rokk Ebony’s Danielle Barca and Chung Yang Su each won Gold in their respective categories – Young Talent and Colour Vision – while Stelios Papa’s stylists Erin Gibson and Kristie Kesic took out Young Talent Silver and Bronze. Hermiz Daniel from Joey Scandizzo Salon won the Colour Vision Silver Award and Dion La Bella of Blow It’s a Hair Thing was awarded Bronze. Our judging compadre Joey Scandizzo was thrilled when his salon took out the Salon Team Award. The gold winners will go on to compete in the Trend Vision International Final in Berlin on November 22nd. We wish them all the best of luck and know our Kiwi hairdressers will do New Zealand proud! Charmaine Guest
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NZ AWARDS
COLOUR VISION GOLD WINNER
KYLIE HAYES, MOHA HAIRDRESSING, DUNEDIN
COLOUR VISION SILVER AWARD
BRAD LEPPER, FRENCH REVOLVER STUDIO, AUCKLAND
COLOUR VISION BRONZE AWARD
MANA DAVE, BLAZE, AUCKLAND
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COLOUR VISION FINALISTS (L-R) LENARD JOHNSTON, DHARMA PAUL DEAN, SERVILLES NEWMARKET SUSAN SOLLY, SERVILLES ACADEMY ARAMA PAKE, SERVILLES TAKAPUNA EMMA BLEACKLEY, SERVILLES TAKAPUNA JAIMEE SMITH, ZAIBATSU HAIR ART THAO NGUYEN, TROIS ON ALLEN
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YOUNG TALENT GOLD WINNER
MIKAELA EDWARDS, RUNWAY, GORE
YOUNG TALENT SILVER AWARD
BETH ROBINSON, SERVILLES ACADEMY, AUCKLAND
YOUNG TALENT BRONZE AWARD
DUNCAN MOSS, SERVILLES TAKAPUNA, AUCKLAND
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YOUNG TALENT FINALISTS (L-R) GABRIELLE DOCHERTY, ESTELLA HAIR STUDIO MADCHU FOOLCHAND, SERVILLES ALBANY FERN TURNER, SERVILLES NEWMARKET SHANNON BUNN, SERVILLES NEWMARKET BEN MCARDLE, SERVILLES NEWMARKET DANNII TREBACZ, SERVILLES ACADEMY KALEB PRITCHARD, DHARMA
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PROFILE
the
scumbag
Q&A
W
ho would wait 7 hours for a haircut? If it's by the world-famous, selfproclaimed 'Scumbag Barbers' of Rotterdam in Holland, then plenty. Leen and Bertus are the duo behind the old-school, male-only barbershop and have turned classic male grooming into an art form. Men travel from all over the world to have their hair tended to by the Schorem team. Their shop in Holland specialises in traditional, signature haircuts, as well as hot-towel, straight-razor shaves. Their approach to cutting hair is an effort to preserve a vanishing craft from a lost era of time. Customers must opt for a haircut from a menu of 12 offered styles and there are no bookings: Leen and Bertus have a strict first-come, first-served policy. The Schorem Barbers recently toured Australia and New Zealand with their travelling interactive barber show to promote their hair pomade brand Reuzel, which is available through Haircare Australia. We spoke to Leen about his love of the craft and what keeps him inspired.
Where did your love for classic barbering come from? I guess it's pretty much in the blood. It always has been, 44
BARBERS
We meet the men behind the most famous barbershop in the world the Schorem Barbers of Rotterdam although music subcultures were a very big influence, as was the love for old (black and white) movies. It’s not just been classic barbering though; Punk Rock and Psychobilly and their DIY ethos has always attracted me, as well as being the freak of nature that I am. I was always drawn to the outskirts of society.
What has been key for you in creating such a successful business? Stay true to the ideas you had in the beginning and stay true to what you love doing most. In all these years of being both barbers and entrepreneurs, we’ve gotten off the track too many times because we tried to listen to what the client might want. With Schorem we chose to do what WE want to do, which might not be the best advice to give but it worked out for us like a charm.
Tell us about the process and inspiration behind creating your own Reuzel pomades? Pomades are from a time when there were no factories that produced chemical products like hairspray or gels. It was a pure product that just "did the job" making you look good. Even before we started the shop we were already
talking about doing our own pomade, heavily inspired by the fictional "Dapper Dan” pomade from the movie Where Art Thou by the Coen Brothers. We really wanted to do two pomades: a basic, classical, medium-hold, old-school grease and a new-school water-based product with high-shine. The pig on the lid is a wink to the past when barbers were surgeons and used the first pomades made out of animal fat as an ointment to close wounds after minor surgery. The apple fragrance is a reference to the French word "pomme" which means apple and was used to mask the rancid smell of those first pomades, and is where the word pomme-ade comes from. We love our history and our craft has one the richest histories there is.
Where do you gather inspiration from personally? Still music and movies. But of course, we work a lot with artwork nowadays as well. I LOVE art; my mother used to run a gallery and I’ve been surrounded by artists my whole life, watching creativity at work. I collect comics, record sleeves, Kustom Kulture artwork. Travelling is a huge inspiration, meeting barbers and hairdressers from different cultures. Talking about the passion we share just keeps that fire burning. I've got the best job in the world - haircutting, travelling, teaching, photography, social media…the world is full of stuff that keeps your mind going as long as you open your eyes and see it.
What kind of looks have you been getting the most requests for lately? I think the hair is getting a bit longer again. The super-short fades will always be around but I do like these long, trim pompadours that are making a comeback. We see a bit of a revival of the flat-top as well which I can only cheer on. This is one of the most fun haircuts to do, a precision job and pretty much the base of every man’s haircut.
Which men's trends do you predict will be big for 2016? It's hard to say and I don’t really care. We don’t do fashion - we do style. That is why we chose to only cut the classics because these are haircuts that have proven themselves over the decades. We didn’t open the shop for fashionable pretty boys, we opened our shop for every guy in the world who looks for a great haircut that suits his personality. Whether you’re a hipster or just your average Joe, you will get a haircut that suits you, not the one that’s on the cover of the latest Vogue. That’s not what a barbershop is about; we build a band of trust over the years, not the latest fad.
What advice do you have for those looking to specialise in barbering? Don’t choose this job because you think it’s cool, choose this job because you want to take care of people. It takes a lifetime to master it and you have to be serious about every haircut. On the other hand, that’s the only thing you have to be serious about. Choose a job you love and you’ll never have to work.
Where do you see men's barbering heading in the future? Barbering has always been around. It’s the second oldest profession in the world and a barbershop is a necessity in modern society as it was in the past. The world has changed so much because of the internet and (anti) social media, we've kinda forgotten about one of the most important things a human needs…social interaction. The
art of having a conversation with a total stranger, meeting people in the flesh and a barbershop is the place where everybody is pretty much the same. That’s why it’s back in such a strong way. Most guys don’t want to worry about their hair, but do need a chat with a guy they trust and a guy is the most loyal client you can have.
Which celebrity do you think needs a bloody good haircut? Every celebrity needs a good haircut, just like every normal guy needs a bloody good haircut. We don’t care who you are, just get in line! 45
TREND WATCH
Ryder
Toni&Guy
hair
COUTURE Five top salons strutted their stuff for the illustrious Exhibit show opening of New Zealand Fashion Week 2015
T
he coveted spot of opening New Zealand Fashion Week this year was allotted to Exhibit, shining the fashion spotlight on some of our top hairdressing talent. Curated as a hair show by hairdressers and for hairdressers, Exhibit offered a platform for stylists to come together to showcase and celebrate what they do best: hair. And the participating salons certainly didn’t disappoint. Hairdressing heavyweights D&M Hair Design, Fabrik, Ryder, Servilles and Toni&Guy were each given five minutes to put on an elaborate display of what inspires and drives them as a collective. Each showcase was very different to one another but all displayed exceptionally unique vision and were equally inspiring. Toni&Guy wanted to do something that best represented their brand, and after more than 23 seasons at London Fashion Week, the team decided to take the strongest looks from their last two seasons over there and recreate them. What came down the catwalk was beautiful editorial hair, with a mix of clean, shiny looks and distressed textures. Servilles took contrasting inspirations of minimalism and extremes to manipulate the hair in ways to spite gravity. Servilles’ Creative Director, Raymond Robinson, described the hair looks as “a bit of a mash-up of what’s really inspiring me at the moment. Think couture seventies afros meets Yohji Yamamoto minimalism.” Horizontal halos of white and red were removed at the end of the runway. Each had been teased into a surreal saucer from wigs made of real hair. Revealed were models with slicked-down scalps extending into plaits or 46
Fabrik
sectioned into braids of varying sizes. A mix of tulle, vinyl, feathers and smoke greeted us for D&M’s showcase. “While we drew on many sources of inspiration, the core idea is a dark ballet – fragile, beautiful and haunting,” said D&M Director, Danny Pato. “It’s called ‘Fallen Raven’. There are references to Samurai and to bondage. We’ve given nods to Blade Runner and to the Ballets Russes. It’s pretty dark.” For us, the juxtaposition between light and dark created a series of looks that stormed the catwalk with maximum impact. Ryder explored the notion of baldness as a theatrical feminine beauty ideal. In addition, their series of looks referenced the punk era, a time of strength and self-expression. “We are attempting to hark back to that sense of freedom but apply a modern sense of beauty to it,” said Ryder Director, Greg Murrell. Indeed, the looks were both jarring and beautiful at the same time. Ryder’s Nicholas Macaulay led the way backstage, readying 16 models in skin-toned skull caps with human hair attached in tufts, ruffs and top knots, lending a look both punkish and monastic. “I like taking hair out of context and trying to use it,” Fabrik’s Jamie Dryden explained before the show. “Hair is a fabulous fabric.” Jamie was inspired by “a number of things we’ve done in the past, including skulls, stitches and balls, all made from hair.” This included fashion skulls created using dyed human hair which models carried Hamlet-like down the runway. Colourful and chaotic, we loved the hairballs of varying sizes attached to the models’ teased heads. D&M
Toni&Guy D&M
D&M Fabrik
Ryder
Kudos must be given to the two creators of Exhibit: hairdressing veterans Andrea and Stephen Cockle. The idea of putting together a show for hairdressers, by hairdressers, seeded when the couple returned to New Zealand after spending time in London. They saw how fragmented the local hairdressing industry had become and wanted to create a forum for hairdressers to come together and explore their creativity with hair. To fill that gap, Stephen and Andrea created Exhibit - a show where hairdressers are given an opportunity to explore the non-quintessential elements of the creative art of hair, to inspire and to be inspired, to get new ideas and be enlightened in a whole new way. And they pulled it off beautifully. “Andrea and Stephen are absolute heroes for bringing this to life,� says Danny Pato. The event was also supported by key sponsors Davines, KEVIN.MURPHY, Oribe, Premier, R+Co, Servilles Academy and Flossie.
D&M
Fabrik
Fabrik
Servilles
Ryder
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FOCUS
Sean Kelly
k catwalCUE
NZ Weddings
Stolen Girlfriends Club
The looks we love from New Zealand Fashion Week 2015
N
ew Zealand fashion took centre stage at the end of August for New Zealand Fashion Week 2015, showcasing some amazing local talent: from our designers through to makeup and hair stylists. While copious style notes were taken on what we’re coveting for autumn/winter 2016, being in the hair industry means that our eyes were constantly drawn to the coifs adorning the bevy of beauties parading down the catwalks, and we definitely had some favourite looks this year. Redken Artist Richard Kavanagh took on the hair directorship for three shows this year: Zambesi, Stolen Girlfriends Club and Kate Sylvester. We loved the look for Zambesi: luxurious, timeless, ethereal and with a touch of magic that elevated it from the everyday. The slightly dishevelled texture was created using Redken Rough Paste 12 and Redken Pillow Proof Two-Day Extender. The men's hair was inspired by imagined post-punk, pre new-wave indie stars, with each model styled individually according to his own personality. Stolen Girlfriends Club hair was inspired by the effortless and almost attainable beauty of 90s supermodels – luxe, alive and free. Embellished with an oversized gold hairclip, the hair was centre parted with a soft bend and easy bounce – beautifully lush and wearable. Hair at Kate Sylvester was also gorgeously wearable. Inspired by Romeo and Juliet, the look was a picture of feminine romanticism – blow-dried with Redken Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine and given a slight bend with the curling iron.
The romantic looks continued at the NZ Weddings Show. Leisa Welch for Joico created two styles: an unstructured, back-combed French roll which relied heavily on Hair Shake Texturiser and Flip Turn Volumizing Finishing Spray; and beautifully soft, voluminous waves created using Heat Set Blowout Perfecting Crème and Ironclad Thermal Protectant. Off-duty ballerina meets Jane Birkin was the order of the day for Ruby. Michael Beel and ghd ambassador, Sara Allsop, left hair loose and mimicked the effortless look of the waves from an undone bun, which Beel personalised for each
Ruby 48
Stolen Girlfriends Club
Zambesi
Hailwood
ITZME
Ruby
Andrea Moore
Twenty-seven names
model with the ghd curve. Clip-in fringes were used to create the feel of Birkin’s eponymous style. Beel and Allsop also worked together on the Andrea Moore show. Four looks were created for the show: our favourites being the wet-look style with mythical gold detail and their version of the 'powdered' ponytail. Both looks utilised Joico Body Luxe Foam and Flip Turn for extra volume. Beel also headed up the hair for twenty-seven names and wanted to create a classy, elegant style for the understated woman. Beel worked with the natural texture of the models hair using L'Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Wild Stylers Crêpage De Chignon, spraying it like a dry shampoo for a light, fluffy feel. The ends of the hair were clasped loosely with a gold clip to complete the look.
Ruby
NZ Weddings 49
FOCUS
Andrea Moore Sean Kelly
Sashajuan
Harman Grubisa
Stephen Marr Creative Director Matt Benns came up with three styles for the Sean Kelly showcase: a knot with ends upward, loose and long, and cinched round the neck by a scarf before flowing free, while models in states of slumber with perfectly dishevelled bed hair were keyed by Stephen Marr's Tommy Stayton for Nom*D, using O&M Original Queenie Hairspray and Surf Bomb Sea Salt Spray. Hair at Hailwood was chic yet simple. Lead hair stylist, Lauren Gunn, envisioned a romantic idea of a girl who goes swimming, swings her hair up into a perfect knot and slips on her evening gown, only to jump into a Maserati. "A lot of water" and Goldwell Crystal Diamond Gloss were used to create the slick look of loose hair and classic French knots.
Ruby
Hailwood
Nom*D Kate Sylvester
Andrea Moore Twenty-seven names
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Kate Sylvester Zambesi
Harman Grubisa
Twenty-seven names
Stolen Girlfriends Club
Demonic Intent Julian Danger
Kate Sylvester Nom*D
NZ Weddings
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NZ SHOWCASE
Redux
Hair: Ryder for Davines, featuring Nicholas Macaulay, Greg Murrell, Jannine Jones, Candace Cole, Fraser Foulagi and Benjamin James. Makeup: Kiekie Stanners for M.A.C. Clothing: Jarrad Godman. Photography: Damien Nikora.
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INSPIRATION “Redux is an adjective meaning ‘brought back, restored’, says Ryder’s Greg Murrell. “With this collection, we are exploring the idea of baldness as a theatrical feminine beauty ideal. It’s designed to provoke a sense of inquiry in the viewer as to what constitutes beauty. In addition, it references the punk era, a time of strength and selfexpression. We are attempting to hark back to that sense of freedom but apply a modern sense of beauty to it.”
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Beauty. Performance. Originality. Excitement. Luxury. Sustainability. Everything you want in one place. boutiquebrands.co.nz
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Painted Ladies
NZ SHOWCASE
Hair: Dharma Ellerslie, Auckland Photography: Jock Robson. Makeup: Chay Roberts. Art Direction: Sara Allsop. 58
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INSPIRATION This new collection from the team at Dharma’s Ellerslie salon is a collaboration between creatives, exploring techniques from master painters and art movements dealing with the idea of beauty. Colour pigments and textures have been utilised to create a "real life" canvas. The combination of old-school techniques with modern technology has allowed the team to create a unique yet beautiful series of portraits.
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SUPERIOR COLOUR SUPERIOR SHINE Professional By Fama is an Italian colour range with proven holding power. You and your clients will feel and see the difference.
Call now for your FREE Professional By Fama colour demonstration in your salon. Our colours are easy to use, and we will provide your salon with FREE training. We won’t lock you into any performance contracts, and our products are priced to help you improve your salons profits!
Call free 0800 880 499
Distributed by Euro Salon Supplies Email: info@eurosalonsupplies.co.nz www.eurosalonsupplies.co.nz facebook.com/eurosalonsupplies 63
TREND WATCH
the marr
FACTORY Stephen Marr's annual showcase was back with a vengeance for 2015, throwing five nights of fashion parties with the country's leading designers. “Born out of an idea to celebrate the talent of our next generation, it has always been our core focus with Marr Factory to embrace and celebrate a new tier of artists coming through the industry. So this year, I had the pleasure of working alongside and assisting our amazing emerging Stephen Marr stylists.” Matt Benns, Creative Director @ Stephen Marr, Ponsonby. Bombay Sapphire presented The Marr Factory 2015. In association with R+Co and Viva, proudly supported by Quartz Reef and Hallertau.
ANNA GAUL FOR KAREN WALKER What was the collection inspired by and how did you respond to this? Joanna Lumley inspired Karen Walker’s collection “Time Machine” from the 1970s show Sapphire and Steel. She was a beacon of chic. I love 70s-inspired hair and it’s also a strong trend at the moment so I was really excited about directing this year’s Karen Walker show at Marr Factory!
Tell us about the hair look you came up with... Our hair muse for this look was a modern-day Farrah Fawcett – big, beautiful, clean and fresh hair. We blow-waved the hair to create body and smooth ends, then set the hair with a tong, coming back off the face and leaving the ends out. We dressed it out just before the models hit the runway.
The hero R+Co product you used? We prepped the hair with Dallas Thickening Spray and used Park Ave Blow Out Balm over the top. To finish off, we used Outer Space Flexible Hair Spray.
TOMMY STAYTON FOR NOM*D What was the collection inspired by and how did you respond to this? The collection was inspired by iconic musicians such as Amy Winehouse and Nico from The Velvet Underground, teamed with NOM*d's essential strong shapes and silhouettes. I wanted to create something just as intriguing as these iconic women and something that resembles NOM*d's darkness and mystery.
Tell us about the hair look you came up with... We created something soft and pulled back from the front, with a strong spine-like silhouette that was very linear from the back/profile view. We left the elastic hanging down the garments to add extra texture and interest.
The hero R+Co product you used? Aircraft Pomade Mousse and Outer Space Flexible Hairspray. 64
JENNIE THORPE FOR ZAMBESI What was the collection inspired by and how did you respond to this? The team spirit embodies the Zambesi spring/summer collection. Traditional sportswear fabrics are used unexpectedly in tailored garments. We decided to create a look that was equally as contrasting with an athletic feel.
Tell us about the hair look you came up with... The look was a slicked-back low ponytail with a contrasting matte-textured crown overhang.
The hero R+Co product you used? For the slicked-back low pony tail, Jackpot Styling Crème, and for the matte-textured crown, Rock Away Salt Spray.
TASHA HOROMIA FOR KATE SYLVESTER What was the collection inspired by and how did you respond to this? Johnny Depp and Winona Ryder’s relationship inspired Sylvester by Kate Sylvester. I started reading a lot of quotes by them both. He has that bad boy image and she was very much the good girl gone 'bad'.
Tell us about the hair look you came up with... I was inspired by a lot of 80s grunge, however I wanted to make the hair look modern and effortless. Matt and I both found inspiration we loved and combined our visions.
The hero R+Co product you used? Rockaway Sea Salt Spray and Dallas Thickening Spray.
SAM SU’A FOR WORKSHOP & HELEN CHERRY What was the collection inspired by and how did you respond to this? The collections were brought together by their long-time collaborator Rachael Churchwood, combined with the latest edit from impressive international designer brands sold alongside their own brand, such as Acne Studios and Alexander Wang. It was important their show reflected what is seen currently on the international runways, so we thought we’d respond to the current trend of finding alternative ways to accessorize hair.
Tell us about the hair look you came up with... The hair was a sophisticated, low pullback with a deep side part. We used a classic Hooked Bungee Elastic to create a cool look that could go easily from day to night with a bit of natural movement. For a bit of added sparkle on the runway, we used a little glitter spray.
The hero R+Co product you used? Park Ave Blow Out Balm. 65
NEW PRODUCTS
1 2 3 3 OF THE BEST… Angel En Provence Orange Flower Shine Mist is a lightweight spray creating amazing shine whilst protecting hair. Enriched with natural ingredients, this gloss enhancer nourishes, prevents split ends and assists colour brilliance. TIGI Bedhead For Men Slick Trick Pomade provides shine without the grease. This firm-hold styler contains workable shapers to create flexible hold for pliable styles, with a next-generation, easy-wash formula. From Dateline Imports. Dull hair comes alive with La Biosthetique Glossing Spray. Offering longlasting, ultra-brilliant shine and intense light reflexes, hair is left looking healthy, conditioned and with a beautiful vibrance.
Tame The Mane Matrix Total Results Mega Sleek Mega Varnish Shine Serum provides high shine as it controls rebellious, unruly locks. Lightweight and quickly absorbed, this oil treatment instantly restores smoothness and silkiness whilst controlling frizz with 24-hour humidity resistance.
PRODUCT
watch
Damage Control TIGI S-Factor Serious Conditioner targets damaged areas, repairing and defending against future damage. The treatment restores hair internally and perfectly primes the surface, ready to create some serious style. From Dateline Imports.
The products are packed with Australian wattle seed, olive leaf and Kakadu plum for ultimate smoothness and shine
Hello Hydration De Lorenzo’s Moisture Balance range locks in hydration, targets colour vitality and offers superior strengthening properties for healthier, youthful and more lustrous hair. Fortified and enriched with creative technology and specialised biocomplexes, the products are packed with Australian wattle seed, olive leaf and Kakadu plum for ultimate smoothness and shine. From PHB.
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Beautiful Blondes Joico Vero K-PAK Color’s 4 new demipermanent Instant Gloss Toners neutralize and enhance the tone of pre-lightened hair in as little as five minutes. These demi-liquid toners are perfect for revitalizing faded blonde hues, plus pack a moisturizing punch, eliminating concerns about dullness and dryness.
Our science delivers what others only promise. Beautiful hair.
Available from Dateline Imports 0800 169 600 | www.dateline.co.nz
NEW PRODUCTS
12
3
3 OF THE BEST… A flexible hold styling crème with a natural shine, KEVIN.MURPHY FREE.HOLD contains essences of Bergamot and Vanilla to lubricate hair and scalp and give a glossy finish. This medium-hold styler also adds a thickening effect to hair. The first professional shampoo to use activated charcoal for purification, TIGI For Men Wise Up Scalp Shampoo increases hydration whilst stimulating the scalp. Style primers also reduce unwanted fuzz. From Dateline Imports. Create the traditional stylish and sophisticated slicked-back look with WAHL Traditional Barbers Creme Brilliantine. Containing beeswax for extra shine, this barbering must-have is available from Combined Salon Supplies.
Blurred Lines Matrix SoBlur features the perfect balance of lift and tone to soften contrasts and perfect undertones for an immediate filtered effect. Correcting, enhancing and balancing, SoBlur’s technology provides an easy, mess-free aerating gel-cream formula, along with optimal hair conditioning. Choose from Cool Down, Mute Down, Brighten Up and Warm Up.
PRODUCT
watch
This hydrating and strengthening crème provides lasting smoothness and definition to curls
Smooth Moves Kérastase Couture Styling Crème de la Crème thermo-protector shields and styles strands during heat styling for lasting control and thicker textures. Perfect for thick hair, this is the ultimate 'volume down' blow-out. Hair is left smoothed and controlled with movement.
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Curl’s Best Friend Coarse, curly or wavy hair will love KEVIN. MURPHY KILLER.CURLS, an anti-frizz curl-defining crème. Giving curls a natural feel and movement, this hydrating and strengthening crème is antioxidant-rich and provides lasting smoothness and definition. From Crew Distributors.
Powder Fresh Voluminous styles are made easy thanks to La Biosthetique Powder Spray. This aerosol powder gives hair a mattified, fresh look and creates more structure and body for styling and restyling. Plus, longer-lasting hold is guaranteed.
Founded in bio-chemistry, delivered in luxury. Professional colour, scalp care, haircare, skincare and make up.
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NEW PRODUCTS
1 2 3 3 OF THE BEST… Spritz, tousle and scrunch to gain powerful volume and lift with Affinage Black Ice Ocean Spritz. This medium-hold styler offers a natural, matte feel for gorgeous beachy texture. From Dateline Imports. Matrix Total Results Miracle Creator leave-in spray nourishes, strengthens and restores vulnerable hair. Restoring moisture and elasticity whilst detangling, blow-dry time is cut in half and hair is instantly transformed from drab to fab. For the ultimate fashion week accessory, L’Oréal Professionnel created Infinium Extreme. The best-selling diffusion spray now has extreme hold, making it the perfect choice for extravagant up-dos and mega voluminous styles.
Brush Up Glide Hair Tools introduce the Velvet Carbon Brush Collection. The brushes have been dipped in carbon – handle, barrel and bristles all coated – to add strength and durability. While a ceramic barrel can handle 300 degrees of heat, carbon can handle 400, plus as carbon is a non-conducting material, it maintains moisture while drying hair to give shine and eliminate static. The collection comes in 20, 25,30,43 and 53mm sizes.
PRODUCT
watch
The only product of its kind – lifting and depositing in one step
Silk Touch
Effortless Artistry
Indulge damaged or unmanageable hair in Goldwell Kerasilk Deep Smoothing Mask. Transforming hair into smooth, soft silk without weighing it down, the mask features Kerashape technology with glyoxylic acid to create new keratin bonds and reduce curl, volume and frizz.
Joico DuoLight is a one-step tonal crème lightener for effortless freehand techniques. The only product of its kind – lifting and depositing in one step – DuoLight allows you to create freehand techniques in half the time. Offering 5 levels of lift through natural or colour-treated hair, DuoLight comes in two intermixable shades: Caramel and Butterscotch.
Most Wanted Give hair fanatics the ultimate gift this Xmas with the limited-edition ghd arctic gold collection. With a range of eleven different gift sets in beautiful packaging, the collection provides ultimate styling results for every hair type. Our pick is the Dry & Style gift-set, featuring the ghd air hairdryer and ghd arctic gold V classic styler.
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HEADWAY PROMOTION
a cut ABOVE
Jaguar National Education Manager, Laura Boulos, talks about the importance of choosing highquality scissors and why Jaguar scissors are considered to be the best in the business
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hat makes Jaguar scissors superior to its competitors?
Jaguar is the world’s leading manufacturer of hairdressing scissors, producing more than 3000 scissors a day and exporting to over 80 countries worldwide. We are leaders in innovation and design. The scissors have been proudly made in Solingen, Germany for over 80 years. Jaguar has one of the most comprehensive product ranges in the business and we produce nearly 300 different scissor models at different quality and price points, meaning there is the right pair of scissors for every stylist.
Can you tell us about the superior technology behind the creation of Jaguar scissors? Jaguar has the highest quality controls and stringent fabrication methods possible with 100-150 working steps to complete one pair of scissors. Precise hand-working combined with the newest generation of computer-controlled machines in state-of-the-art production facilities guarantees optimum and precise quality. Jaguar bends the blades by hand and controls this with a computer measuring system with accuracy to 0.01mm.
Do you think hairdressers need to be more educated on the importance using high-quality scissors can make to their cutting work? I strongly believe hairdressers need further education on scissor quality, as often hairdressers use the wrong scissors for the technique of cutting used. We often blame the scissor for ‘not working properly’ or ‘pulling on the hair’ and generally this is due to the fact that the wrong scissor is used for the job at hand. Unfortunately, hairdressers are not educated on equipment, only cutting techniques. More often than not, hairdressers start their apprenticeship with a cheap pair of scissors and are taught to blunt cut, slice cut, chip and perform technical cutting work with a pair of scissors not designed to perform in that way. There are different blade shapes designed for different cutting techniques and different performance levels. A hairdresser should have a pair of scissors for blunt cutting/barbering, a scissor for slice cutting and advanced technical work, a scissor for chipping techniques, a thinning scissor for basic blending and a thinner for weight removal. Combined Salon
Supplies stock the full Jaguar range and can help you find the right scissor for the right cut.
What have been Jaguar’s most popular scissors to date and why? For barbers, you can’t go past the White Line Satin Series. Available from 5” up to 7” scissors with a micro-serrated cutting edge, it provides superior cutting for scissor-overcomb and comes at a very reasonable price point. First year apprentices also love the Satin scissor as it helps to hold the hair in place whilst they are still learning to cut. The Satin scissor is the most popular scissor in the White Line range due to the appeal to both barbers and apprentices. For optimal slice cutting abilities and smooth, clean cutting, the Gold Line Diamond E Series are most popular. With the Offset, Ergo handle design and the beautiful Clam-Shell fully integrated cutting edge, the Jaguar scissors will feel smooth, allowing easy cutting like a hot knife through butter. This scissor is extremely popular with senior hairdressers and advanced apprentices. It’s superior in quality and is available in 5”, 5.5” and 6” lengths.
What’s the best piece of advice you can give to hairdressers when it comes to choosing scissors? The most important piece of advice I can give is to ensure you purchase your scissor through a reputable distributer. Unfortunately, there is a downside to being the world’s leading scissor manufacturer and that is counterfeiting. Fake Jaguar scissors are not easy to identify at first glance, because often, the Jaguar logo and packaging have been copied. The fact these scissors are cheap knock-offs and lower in quality in every aspect generally doesn’t become obvious to the hairdresser until they are used in the salon - dull, losing their sharpness after only a short while. Jaguar does take serious legal action against anyone found to be selling, importing and producing counterfeit Jaguar products. If you believe you have purchased a fake product, please contact Jaguar with the details of purchase. Jaguar is sold exclusively through Combined Salon Supplies and its agents in New Zealand. They have been trained by Jaguar representatives, to ensure that one can get the right scissors for one’s level and ability and can assist from purchase through to servicing.
Jaguar scissors are available exclusively from Combined Salon Supplies stores. See www.cssonline.co.nz for more information 71
INTERNATIONAL
s i o r t u e N
Hair: Nathan Cherrington @ Toni&Guy Paramatta, Australia Photography: Matthew Webb Makeup: Isabella Schimid Styling: Elle Packham
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INSPIRATION Neutrois reveals a gender-neutral composition of six beautiful women. Whilst a thread of androgyny permeates the storyboard, the concept was not one of masculinising the feminine, rather broadening the scope of what we perceive to be beautiful. Creator, Toni&Guy Paramatta Style Director, Nathan Cherrington, was inspired by a classic icon or era from the past for each image. Looks that have been originally attributed to a male subject are instead seen on female faces, a juxtaposition that combines the familiarity of shape and form on an unexpected canvas. From Andy Warhol to Jean Michael Basquiat, Nathan has demonstrated a broad variety of techniques; from precision cutting to intricate braiding.
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INTERNATIONAL
s s e d l o G
Davines Artistic Director: Angelo Seminara Davines International Creative Colour Ambassador: Edoardo Paludo Photography: Andrew O’Toole Makeup: Laura Dominique Stylist: Niccolò Torelli
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INSPIRATION The shimmering colours of dawn are distilled into this stunning hair collection from Davines Artistic Director, Angelo Seminara. Inspired by woman as goddess and the higher power of gold, the heart of Goldess is its colour - warm but metallic. The effect is innovatively created using expertly mixed cool tones that emphasise the warmer shades in a harmonious blend of both. Yellow gold, pink gold and copper hues shine through the collection, shimmering across the hair as it moves. With Aurora, goddess of Roman mythology who brought the dawn as muse, cuts purposely recreate a grown-out look, emphasising the simplicity and softness of different lengths. Aurora embodies that innately and eternally feminine characteristic: the harmonious blending of contradictions.
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ACID MERMAID
INTERNATIONAL
Jamie Benny @ Rush Hair, UK Photography: Jemima Marriot Makeup: Alex Chalk Styling: Sasha Louise
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INSPIRATION The Acid Mermaid collection combines ethereal and delicate textures with a decidedly punk influence. Created by British Hairdressing Newcomer of the Year 2014, Jamie Benny, the idea was to create images of mermaids with rounded shapes and a mix of dark and vibrant colours to give the collection a moody, mysterious edge.
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BUSINESS
power up
WITH SOCIAL MEDIA Wendy Maxwell discusses how social media empowers preferred two-way conversations
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ocial media. It’s everywhere. And what a powerful force it has become in such a short time. So, I have one question for you. Do you want to be more accessible to potential clients so they can easily find you on Google? Of course you do. Here are some thoughts. You are missing potential new business if you don’t have a website. Your website should be visually appealing. It needs to be smartphone visible and include up-to-date, relevant information including prices, images, locations and contact information, such as parking. For an added bonus, you can include special keywords to have your website rank higher than your competitors in search engine results. Having your own salon blog will help you do just that. Promoting your salon with a blog isn’t just great for keeping your clients in the know; it can actually affect your standings in search results. Post fun, relevant articles such as health and beauty tips, new services you may be offering or a unique success story with a fun testimonial. Share your 88
blog posts on your social media pages to encourage sharing far and wide. For example, if you write a post on a celebrity fashion colour service, such as balayage, and then mention your area plus a specific service when people type it into Google your website will pop up in the results. For example, new celebrity looks “Balayage Colour.” Put this name in your title and throughout the post and when people search for that service in that area you will be found. This can take a few posts to get right but people will flow to your site when it’s done correctly. With salon blogging you now have another reason to contact your clients on a number of topics. More importantly, ask them for their feedback on new and existing services, products or general hair care advice. This keeps your brand fresh and shows clients that you really value their opinion. With more than 25 per cent of all Google beauty searchers looking for advice on style, this helps by continually building your brand by engaging with like-minded individuals. It’s another way of creating an advantage to separate you from your competitors. Setting up a salon blog is a great way of getting your brand name out there amongst prospective clients while
“With more than
25%
of all Google beauty searchers looking for advice on style, this helps by continually building your brand by engaging with like-minded individuals.” at the same time, keeping up connections with current clients when they are not in your salon. It’s also a way of answering questions clients may want to ask when they leave the salon. A blog is a great way to keep open the communication link to more clients. After a few months of blogging, you will find yourself morphing into an ‘informed opinion leader’ in your own
niche. A thought-leader is someone who is recognised as a professional in her/his specific industry. As an industry leader, people will seek you out for the latest fashion and haircare advice.
CREATE SOCIAL MEDIA BUSINESS PAGES Start with Facebook, Instagram and Tumblr. Social media will help you reach a pool of potential clients. Social media can be fun to play around with but it can also be an incredibly valuable business tool.
0800 169 600 • DATELINE.CO.NZ
LIST YOUR BUSINESS ON WEB DIRECTORIES Once you have your website in order, you should be listing your business on all the top directories. Since you’ve already created a website, you can link back to it so people can find you. Listing your business on directories will also help people find your business through more avenues and it will even help your website appear higher in web search results.
WHO’S IN YOUR NEIGHBOURHOOD? Approach other businesses in your area, such as your local gym. Keep your business cards and flyers at the gym and allow them to do the same for cross-promotions. For an added bonus, put a call-to-action on your flyers to ensure both brand's clients have an offer to take up to maximise the new season’s key looks.
“Salon marketing isn’t just for new clients. You need to effectively promote your salon to existing clients too.”
Your business website, web directories, your Facebook page, handouts, flyers and even your local newspaper – any place you feature your business - should include a call-to-action. A call-to-action can be anything from, “Call us for a complimentary consultation” to “Special Mother’s Day offer”. Give an extra incentive for bringing in friends and family as well as providing small offers to make your salon stand out from the competition and ensure you are consistently turning salon visitors into loyal clients. Now you have your website and social media pages already set up, you can easily run a competition to involve your existing clients and widen your client base. Encourage those already following you to share your competition with their friends and followers by adding an incentive such as extra points in your loyalty scheme or an additional entry in your competition. Collect email addresses from entries to re-market to them later. Salon marketing isn’t just for new clients. You need to effectively promote your salon to existing clients too. Having clients visit just once isn’t going to grow your business in the long term. You need to have them come in three consecutive times over an 18-week period to be able to consider them loyal clients. One of the most productive and efficient ways to stay in touch with your clients is through email. Everyone has email and almost everyone checks it every single day. To promote your salon effectively, write a strong subject line that includes eye-catching statements such as “Latest Celebrity looks”. Make sure you are collecting email addresses every time someone visits your salon so you can continue to communicate with them. Use an email system such as Mail Chimp to manage your email lists and measure your campaign successes. While email marketing is great for one-way messages, social media is perfect for engaging with your clients in two-way conversations. Post relevant content such as pictures, videos, makeovers and testimonials. Always make sure to respond to your clients’ posts. For an added bonus, monitor and measure your social media responses to see how your pages have grown and how your clients are interacting with your brand. SMS Marketing, or Text Message Marketing, is another player in the game. Texting makes things simple yet effective, with messages appearing right in your clients hands. Go create your own social media campaigns right now! L'Oréal Professional Products Division Education and Development Manager, Wendy Maxwell, leads the company's Salon 360 Development Programme. Wendy has 28 years experience in the industry. Her role sees her working with salons across Kérastase, L'Oréal Professional, Redken and Matrix brands. She has worked and attended training internationally in Paris and London on business development for L'Oréal.
TIGI fatboy 66 APOLLO DRIVE, ALBANY, AUCKLAND 89
PROFILE
style
MUSE
Five minutes with L’Oréal Professionnel’s new ‘It’ girl, Alice Dellal
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top model’s daughter, an eccentric heiress, Karl Lagerfeld’s muse for Chanel and now a photographer, top model Alice Dellal does it all. The new L’Oreal Professionnel ‘It’ girl changes her hairstyles, but not her look, and swaps her half-shaved head for a shorter cut and a slightly darker blonde with a fringe. We talk to the style icon about beauty, hair and inspiration.
How does it feel to be one of the L’Oréal Professionnel ‘It’ girls for spring/summer 2015? I’m honoured that they chose me. I love this unexpected transformation. It’s really exciting!
This campaign is your first partnership with a beauty brand. Why did you choose a professional brand? I was told L’Oréal Professionnel were looking for new faces. Their products had already crafted my look and I already knew the brand thanks to my experience as a model. On-set, hairstylists always use L’Oréal Professionnel products on my hair, so I was very familiar with them and it made sense for me to work with them. I also felt that it was the right time for me to change my hairstyle for my next job; the right time to reinvent my cut and leave this shaved cut behind me for good! It wasn’t unique anymore.
What do you like most about your new haircut? I feel comfortable and I like this new length. People tell me that it makes me sexier, which is a great compliment.
In your opinion, who is the L’Oréal Professionnel woman? She’s a woman who stays one step ahead of the trends. She knows about beauty products and knows how to take care of herself. She likes to play with her look and make changes. She knows how to take risks with her hair, while using products that are accessible and essential. The L’Oréal Professionnel woman wants the best for her hair.
What do you think of the theme behind the spring/ summer It Looks, inspired by the backstage world of 90
music festivals like Coachella? I love music festivals, especially punk and metal ones. I tour Europe every summer to go to them. It’s true that you see a lot of different hairstyles, from Mohawks to shaved heads by way of short hair and shaggy grungy looks, not to mention the variety of hair colours.
What’s your hair routine? I wash my hair with Mythic Oil Shampoo and I use the mask once a week. As for the Mythic Oil itself, it’s great for my frizzy hair, which is often dry. It makes my hair fall better, tames it and makes it easier to control. Thanks to all of these L’Oréal Professionnel products, it’s become a lot easier to take care of my hair every day. When I have to style my hair for an event, I use Infinium Hairspray; it’s great for teasing! I use it to make a wild mane, the perfect look for a Leo, which is my zodiac sign. Every lion needs a mane...
What do you always carry in your handbag? A camera, a roll of film, lip balm, my dark red Chanel lipstick, a nail file, mascara, a pen, a mini laptop and of course, my wallet.
Which hair colour do you feel most comfortable with? Blonde, but I’m open to experimentation. I like blonde hair, especially when I have a lovely tan for summer, or I go darker for winter. I’ve tried all sorts of blondes over the years, but this latest one is brilliantly vibrant and wonderfully intense. It’s a real boost for my blonde.
have to add my own personal touch.
How did your career begin? I was spotted in school by my agent Sarah Leon when I was 15. I don’t know what really got my career off to a start, but I know that once I shaved the side of my head, I got a lot more work.
Describe yourself in three words... Creative, spontaneous and friendly.
If you were a film, what would you be? Oh my god! La Femme Nikita. Luc Besson is one of my favourite directors. And I recently saw The Place Beyond the Pines - I loved it!
What do you enjoy doing in your down-time? I love photography, collecting all sorts of things, driving and activities that let me use my creativity.
How would you describe your fashion style?
Where would you like to travel?
Punk/grunge/rock but really sort of a mish-mash. I always
On the Trans-Siberian Railway.
FOCUS
BEAUTIFUL CHEMISTRY The proof is in the bottle with breakthrough hair care range, Living Proof
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ateline Imports have launched an exciting hair care and styling range into the New Zealand market – Living Proof. Living Proof was created with a simple ambition: to challenge conventional wisdom to solve the toughest beauty problems. Their story began back in 2004 when world-renowned scientist, Dr. Bob Langer, teamed up with industry veterans. It was Dr. Langer’s analysis and insight of existing beauty products that revealed the extent to which the industry relied upon outdated technologies and frequent use of similar ingredients, only to yield insufficient results for consumers. Dr. Langer believed that he could leverage his technologies to not only disrupt the status quo of the hair industry but also deliver innovative beauty solutions that would keep their promises and genuinely deliver results. A team of scientists from outside the industry, who didn’t have any preconceived notions of what could or couldn’t be achieved in the hair realm, teamed up with iconic industry veterans, celebrity hair stylist Ward Stegerhoek and entrepreneurial stylist Mitch De Rosa, and they set to work on creating and patenting new molecules that completely change how hair behaves. The Living Proof scientific team were able to invent new molecules that led to the development of hair innovations such as the silicone and oil-free No Frizz
range, featuring the biggest breakthrough in anti-frizz technology in 30 years, and the creation of entirely new categories in hair care, with inventions like Prime Style Extender, which promises to preserve hair styles for up to twice as long. Living Proof has also tackled other common hair care concerns within their product offering, including the ‘Full’ range, which defies flatness with touchable volume and body, and ‘Restore’ to defeat damage and increase resistance to breakage up to 20 times more. Other star products include Night Cap Overnight Perfector and
Perfect Hair Day Shampoo and Conditioner. In just four years, the brand has won 38 awards and in October 2012, Jennifer Aniston joined Living Proof as co-owner and hair care spokesperson. “What caught my attention about Living Proof is the company’s unique approach to hair care,” says Jennifer. “They use scientific technologies to offer women actual proof in a bottle, rather than hoping for results.” Jennifer’s long-time hairdresser, Chris McMillan, also joined as Living Proof ’s ‘celebrity stylist’, rounding out a group of illustrious hairdressers from the editorial and salon disciplines. 91
PROFILE
FRONT: Bridgette Young. BEHIND STANDING: Charlotte Harris, Laura Pricket, Alex Roberts, Megan Shepherd.
organic
GOLD
Bridgette Young, owner of Off The Fringe Organic Hair Studio in Auckland, talks about winning the Organic Colour Systems Photographic Competition 2015
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ow did it feel to win the recent Organic Colour Systems Competition?
It was an amazing feeling! We watched the announcement video together and I was almost not breathing. I felt like we hadn’t placed anywhere after the 2nd place winner was shown, but after much anticipation, we saw our stunning model Chantelle. Hearts pounding and insanely loud screams of delight were the natural reaction. It's a very humbling experience being chosen as the winner; there were so many talented stylist teams that entered.
What was the inspiration behind your look? Each team member came up with a vision and a few styles/colours definitely came through. We worked on the mood board together until we all agreed, and then it just took on its own life force. The main inspiration was beautiful, stand-out colour, shiny healthy hair and fire! Fire is such a powerful, natural element and is beautiful in its colour and movement - we wanted the hair to do the same. We loved the idea of bringing some 80s-inspired looks into the shoot. We had lots of images of halo colour and ombre but wanted to push it further than something we would do every day in the salon.
How do you think entering photographic awards, such as the Organic Colour Systems Competition, has allowed you to progress in your hair work? The main thing I have learnt is how to lead a team and allow them to find their creative side, which is all new to 92
me. Personally, I've found that I am being more creative and less afraid of showing clients new ideas. It has given me a newfound belief in what I can do for them.
How important are organic products to you and why did you choose to partner with Organic Colour Systems? I've been using OCS for over 7 years. It was relatively new to NZ when we started using it. I was one of the sceptical old-school hairdressers who believed in the big names and everything they could do. I never really considered using anything else until we started having more and more clients reacting to colour. It was due to a client we found OCS and we didn't look any further because we loved everything about it. I really believe in the products and the philosophy and ethics behind it. I know I could never ethically choose to go onto another brand now. I really care about what goes into the products, how they are made and what I am giving to my clients. And if I am not giving them the best, I'm not doing my job.
Favourite styling products from the range? I love them all and can honestly say I use all of them. I do use Thermal 2-Twenty and Argan Oil Gloss all the time. One of the things I love about them is that you can layer the products on top of each other. The Thermal 2-Twenty has amazing heat protection. I love to show clients how it works by spraying a bit on their arm then using the hairdryer over it so they can feel what it is doing for their hair.
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beauty 95
the complete solution... Experience the protective, anti-ageing benefits of vitamin C with Joyce Blok Professional Skin Care anti-oxidant serums. With our unique ecological conditions and high UV exposure climate, New Zealand skin is vulnerable to environmental damage and susceptible to the effects of ‘photo-ageing’. Photo-ageing accelerates the majority of time-associated changes in the skin including the appearance of uneven or blotchy complexions, surface roughness and fine lines. Applying topical anti-oxidants is one of the most effective methods to help protect and repair skin from the harm these destructive free radical molecules can cause. Featuring tiered vitamin C concentrations, the comprehensive range of lightweight anti-oxidant serums created by Joyce Blok Professional Skin Care is suitable for all skin types. Designed to complement and work in unison with a daily beauty care routine, they offer a complete solution to restore and protect healthy-looking skin. Vitamin C has long been recognised as a key skin care ingredient due to its ability to neutralise free radicals and defend against UVA and UVB damage. Playing a central role in collagen production, vitamin C also helps to brighten and revitalise the skin for a youthful, glowing complexion.
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With 20% vitamin C, the optimum concentration for best results, this powerpacked serum is ideal for normal, oily, mature or sun damaged skin, especially during summer, and should be recommended as a vital step in any skin care routine.
With 15% vitamin C, 1% vitamin E and 0.5% ferulic acid, this combination of anti-oxidants provides eight times the skin’s own photo-protection against UV activity, and should be applied beneath sunscreen to offer the highest effectiveness.
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Sothys reinvents the hyaluronic acid approach. Driven by advancements from the Sothys Green Science Unit on its exclusive active ingredient, 1055 boletus mushroom extract, plus a high and low molecular weight form of Hyaluronic acid. Sothys’ latest hydration programme with this unique triple active formulation is clinically proven to deliver an unparralled result.
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BUSINESS
the
GOOD OIL Oils, especially from plants, are nothing new to the industry. Anne O’Brien looks at how to entice clients to try the new wave of ‘good oils’ on the market and overcome that fear of looking too slick.
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ith the possibility of spring comes the almost primal need to purify both internally and externally. We see it encouraged everywhere. Detox, cleanse, weed, strip and renovate - spring is here! This seasonal reaction, which is perhaps a bit of a cliché in the modern world as we have become somewhat obsessed with perfection all year round, should be approached with a little extra sensitivity in regards to our skin. That squeaky clean is great for teeth, criminal records, bathrooms and kitchens is of absolutely no doubt BUT it is not what you should be aiming for when looking after your own and your client’s skin. This season I have embraced sharing with you one of my favourite trends or should I say, unveiling a well-kept beauty secret that has been part of the beauty routine for thousands of years - oil, in all its slick and traditionally aromatic glory. The rise and rise of the interest in oils for the skin has largely been fuelled by the interest in plant-based oils for face and body with the surge of the ‘organic obsession’ . Changes in attitude as to what is considered ‘good’ for us in the last 10 years has revived a curiosity in ancient civilisations and how they looked to nature to protect their skin from extreme weather conditions. Emu oil is thought to have been used by Aboriginal tribes as a moisturiser more than 40,000 years ago - extraordinary - and no doubt this fact will be a wonderful marketing tool for any product with emu oil as part of its makeup. Cleopatra, in all her
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Elizabeth Taylor glory, was a huge fan of castor and sesame oil, as well as the ass milk she regularly bathed in. Almond, avocado and macadamia have been mixed and sold by Dominican monks for skin conditions for centuries and more contemporary beauty fans are well familiar with the likes of the oils and serums introduced to their favourite routines over the years.
“The rise and rise of the interest in oils for the skin has largely been fuelled by the interest in plant-based oils for face and body with the surge of the ‘organic obsession”
The question is, how do you convince a client to jump on board and try regenerating oils after what has been drummed into them for years? Oil on the skin for many of our end-users means unclean and unwashed. This is so not the case and to overcome this cliché is easy - ask them to try it. Many years ago, I was told I had lipid dry skin and that there was no oil in my skin at all. Secretly I was delighted. I would pretty much never suffer from a pimple or a blemish as a result of this skin type and I was happy as a clam
with that. As I grew older I suddenly realised dry skin was constantly thirsty and I began to envy (and still do) that sheen on a beautiful combination or oily skin. The explosion of oils onto the market was a life-saver but I do recognise it is something that may need to be gently introduced to some of our spa guests, particularly those who are not suffering from any obvious dryness. The benefits of oil for assisting the skin in preventing irritation, decreasing inflammation, promoting absorption and plumping the skin are obvious to us as beauty professionals. However, two of the most common objections to the wonderful benefits of oil - “I don’t want to look greasy” and “I have combination skin and the oils just make it worse” - leave therapists simply shrugging their shoulders and saying, “Fair enough”. Well, no one wants breakouts or dirty-looking skin so I guess that is 'fair enough' if you’re not engaging in your brands. For those of you that are you will know that your professional skincare provider gets this as well. Hence why the development and advanced research into these ‘good oils’ means this won’t happen. The only way to introduce someone to your wonderful oils is to apply it. Applying the product is a simple but effective way of converting clients to your radiance-enhancing oil and is as ancient a conversion tool as the use of good oils themselves. Somehow we seem to have lost the art of sharing in-spa. Have your client simply feel the product on the back of their hand at the start of any treatment. Share. See what happens.
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“Somehow we seem to have lost the art of sharing in-spa. Have your client simply feel the product on the back of their hand at the start of any treatment. Share. See what happens.”
Please do not restrict yourselves to only applying the oil on the back of the hands of your facial clients for this tip. A therapist only sharing their skin care knowledge with facial clients is one of the biggest problems in our industry. Everyone uses skin care so why assume our clients who wax, tint or shape don't? An interesting subject that is often addressed at month-end meetings! Back to sharing…at the end of the treatment show the client just how non-greasy your good oil is. Allow them to see the difference in their skin from this simple act. An expensive investment for you? You will find the small investment and effort well worth it I am sure. Pour some of the oil on the back of their hands and watch their face change as they suddenly realise that oil is not the enemy but is actually a truly great way to naturally look after the skin. No amount of ‘features and benefits’ are going to get around this one. You simply have to get your clients involved. The skin needs more than any single oil or blend of oils can provide so remember these good oils are the supporting 102
roles rather than the main actors in the skin care routine. They are not replacing anything but simply enhancing the day cream, body cream and night cream that is already being used. Most ‘good oils’ can be used across product ranges as well, which is excellent news for your clients who may not be ready to invest in a complete change of skin care, either emotionally or financially just yet, but would be happy to take a little piece of your spa experience home with them. Good oils should be given the opportunity to shine in a positive way and they are not exclusive to dry skin types, unless you as a beautiful professional wish to limit their application to these clients alone. They are for everyone to enjoy and it’s time to embrace the new obsession and leave the squeaky clean to the concepts that suit it best – teeth, bathrooms and all the other things we started on. Anne O'Brien has been part of the salon and spa professional community for 16 years and is a self-confessed skin care junkie.
A FACT ON GOOD OILS…
Oil molecules behave like tiny Trojan horses tricking the skin into letting active ingredients penetrate the skin, allowing them to get closer to collagen-producing fibroblasts, all without irritating the surface.
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FOCUS
RUNAWAY BRIDE Beauty communications expert, Sharleen Singh, discusses how best to embrace the start of the wedding season this spring
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hhhh the wedding season. This gorgeous time of year brings about an array of different bridal possibilities, as well as an array of personalities for you to help manage and support. With a whopping 20,125 marriages registered in 2014, make sure your salon or spa reaps the benefits of this very rewarding season of love from a nurturing and a commercial perspective. Your salon or spa should to be able to adapt and meet the needs of each bridal booking. Whether a classic or a trendsetter event, the biggest deciding factor will be what value your bridal party puts on their personal presentation and wellness requirements, as well as your abilities as a beauty professional. Options are your best bet, as pre-built packages are a great way to showcase things that your bridal party may have not even thought about. Do not fall into the wedding culture trap of seeing huge dollar signs over the heads of your love birds but equally important, do not discount your services either. A large group is just what your business is designed for. Being fully booked is the key to your success. Having a “one size fits all” programme for brides is a great foundation for your wedding services but you should also give your bride and groom the opportunity to customise their beauty programme. As with all packages, ensure that you have a few different price points to cater to brides with varying budgets. These should reflect your most popular treatments and services - there is no point creating a package that will never get booked! Your spa may want to offer ‘the works’ - with a body wrap, facial, mani-pedi, wax and massage booked over the week leading up to the wedding. Already stylists offer multiple hair and makeup bridal trials, plus a full hair and makeup application on the big day so why not us as skincare specialists? On the other end of the spectrum, you might have a simple ‘day of the wedding’ package that includes a mani, pedi, neck and shoulder massage, gentle facial and brow tidy.
and groom, mini pampering for flower girls and making sure the groomsmen are actually groomed men. Group packages with added-value ‘gift with treatment’ give the whole wedding party an extra incentive to book their beauty treatments with your salon or spa, while opening up the doors of potential long-term skin care clients. Think about extending your wedding services to hen’s parties. Hen’s parties are more commonly becoming a 24 hour event - pampering in the day followed by a night out or even sleep-over. Whether these are an intimate event for the bride and her bridesmaids, or a larger more complicated day, get on board! Offer up your space and put together a fun programme full of pampering, bubbles and nibbles. This could include a mini facial, massages, manis and pedis or a great customisable option for your bride-to-be’s who may just want a makeup and full brow artistry for instance. Why stop there? Involve the guys too. The typical ‘Kiwi bloke’ is fast changing, so ensure that you have a few options for your groom-to-be as well. Bring out your ‘just for men’ treatments and - you guessed it - customise. Your grooms could be introduced to treatments by your bride, so highlight your couple’s room as well. You could even create a men’s take-home programme for the lead-up to the wedding, with the importance of skin care for your groom emphasised. The options are endless.
“Having a “one size fits all” programme for brides is a great foundation for your wedding services but you should also give your bride and groom the opportunity to customise their beauty programme.”
IN IT TOGETHER While the main focus is on the blushing bride, it will pay to tailor your services for the full wedding party as well. This could include bridesmaids, mothers and fathers of the bride 104
SOCIAL MEDIA QUEEN It is important to look to the future and this bride is a special one so it's important to use the proper communication style with her highness. She knows what she wants and where she’s pinned it to. With over 72.8 million worldwide users (as at January 2015), and 85% of its users being female, you can be assured that the modern-age bride has a secret wedding Pinterest board and has been on Instagram for months. So how do you take a slice of this ever-expanding market? Firstly, create a Pinterest or Instagram account for your business. Start off with images dedicated to different aspects of your own business and once you have built up a decent following, then it’s time to start with your wedding-themed images. This could be your favourite dresses, photo shoots,
or even venues – just ensure that these images match the personality of you and your business and keep it professional, not too crafty. Start taking photos of your fabulous brides and share what you have achieved for the big day. Follow people who use wedding hash tags and begin interacting with bride-to-be’s. It is so important to note that social media shouldn’t purely be seen as a money-making platform, it’s a way to showcase your business and communicate with your clients on a personal level. After all, they don’t call it SOCIAL media for nothing! Don’t forget about researching bloggers that are making a huge name for themselves, both in New Zealand and overseas. Have a look around and find bloggers that you yourself would follow, or alternatively ask your clients about their favourite blogs. Take a look and see if they are reputable and get in touch so they can try out your services for future posts about your business.
TECH SUPPORT
amazing therapist, you will need to have an amazing sales person as well. We all know their treatment doesn’t end at the salon. As experts in your respective fields it’s important to keep up-to-date with the latest innovations from the industry - and more importantly, invest! A great starting point for your business would be light therapy, which is gaining a reputation as being the perfect treatment for brides. With the “no makeup” dewy trend ever so popular, it is important for brides to have flawless, glowing skin. If you get a call from a panicked bride, a light therapy treatment could be the perfect ‘icing on the cake’ – the much sought-after bridal glow.
“ Group packages with added-value ‘gift with treatment’ give the whole wedding party an extra incentive to book their beauty treatments with your salon or spa, while opening up the doors of potential long-term skin care clients.”
It’s important to communicate to your wedding beauty that if she (or he) is not starting on a homecare regime as well as an in-salon one then their results are not going to be the best that they can be. As well as being an
TILL THE VERY END
There are so many ways for you to open your business up to the wedding industry, and as always there is no “one size fits all” answer but this is a good foundation to start with. Ensure that you have a clear understanding of your target audience and what you can do for them and then think outside the box. Your spa or salon could become part of the best day of that run(a)way bride (and groom's) life and referrals are the best way to grow your success. Make her look beautiful and the rest becomes what those bloggers all rave about – an iconic beauty moment. Good luck! 105
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bridal
BEAUTY Get your pre-wedding beauty regime up to speed with these essentials
1
PRIORI Advanced AHA Invigorating Face & Body Scrub
This invigorating scrub is designed for face and body to gently exfoliate, buffing away dead skin cells and revitalising dry and sun-damaged skin. Filled with antioxidant-rich vitamins, this unique exfoliator leaves skin baby-soft, soothed and radiant. Self Care Group.
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Glo Minerals Luxe Liquid Foundation SPF15
Combining light-diffusing diamond powder technology with ultra-fine minerals and pigments, this smooth formula nourishes and protects skin while delivering a radiant soft-focus and smoothing effect. Self Care Group.
3
Algologie Vine Secret Divine Body Balm
Hydrating and nourishing active ingredients bring softness and protection to skin with this toning body balm. Extract of grape leaf also efficiently fights premature skin ageing. World Beaute.
Perfect for smoothing away fine lines, brightening and priming for flawless skin and to prep for makeup application. Skin Health Experts.
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Naked Tan Goddess Creme de la Creme
Enriched with shea butter, cocoa butter and aloe vera, this deeply nourishing body butter is ideal as an everyday body moisturiser and to increase the longevity of your tan. House of Camille.
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Skindinavia The Makeup Finishing Spray Bridal
Kiss-proof, cry-proof and sweat-proof, Skindinavia’s ultra-fine spray resists the effects of excess moisture and keeps makeup looking flawless. This award-winning mist controls shine and keeps makeup photo-ready for up to 16 hours. House of Camille.
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Sothys Recover Rx Solution
This regenerating solution has been formulated to comfort, rejuvenate and moisturize stressed-out skin. Its Glyco-Repair formula contains carob seed which acts quickly to heal and calm inflammation. De Spa Cosmetics.
Jane Iredale Tantasia Self Tanner
Building to a perfect colour over 3 days that lasts longer than most self-tanners because it works with the melanin in your skin, simply apply once a day and watch the colour develop. Touch up when needed for a radiant and natural-looking glow. PSB.
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Dermalogica Skin Perfect Primer SPF30
Faby Nails & Cuticles Fitness Oil
Repair nails and cuticles with this nourishing concoction infused with vitamins E and F, ginseng and echinacea extract. Apply daily to protect against dehydration and promote nail health, strength and growth. Probeauty.
Quoi BB Cream
Multi-faceted and benefit-packed, this tinted cream primes, nourishes, evens skin tone and strengthens in one step. Skin immediately appears more hydrated and luminous, and is protected from UV damage with SPF 30. Probeauty.
TREND WATCH
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Long term use of dermal fillers and Botox help to 'press pause' on ageing
The
COSMETIC
frontier
Dr Catherine Stone reports back on the top five global cosmetic medicine trends from London's FACE Conference 2015 108
For years the public has asked what the long-term effects might be for Botox and HA fillers and research is now showing that they may actually help prevent facial ageing in the long-term, as well as giving positive cosmetic benefits in the short-term (if used judiciously). Renowned plastic surgeon, Mr Rajiv Grover, presented his final research on 51 consecutive facelift patients, where he showed that repeated treatments with HA dermal fillers resulted in firmer skin with more collagen that replicated the retaining ligaments that support our face, allowing those women to 'press pause' on ageing. Mr Grover collected connective tissue from the same portion of redundant skin from the facelifts of 'loose' English women, where the skin has less collagen and support, is lacking firmness, and as such tends to sag as we age, compared them with 'tight' Asian skin, which has much firmer connective tissue and is less likely to sag or drop, which is why those of Asian-descent often look much more youthful, and compared both to 'loose' English women repeatedly treated with HA fillers. Under the microscope, the tissue that had HA filler treatment looked almost identical to the tissue from the Asian women. Photos showed that the HA-treated group looked more youthful, with less sagging of the face. If you have poor retaining ligaments or supportive collagen in the soft tissue under the skin, the face sags, similar to the Roly dogs who have big wrinkles as puppies, when their skin is too big and their connective tissues are weak. This loose skin moves easily over the soft supportive layer of the skin compared to tighter, firmer skin with strong supportive tissue - what Dr Grover affectionately describes as 'facial velcro', which keeps the skin of the face 'sticking' to itself. Repeated treatments with HA fillers in the cheeks, chin and jawline can replicate the action of the retaining ligaments that support the face, giving the 'velcro' effect and preventing the development of 'jowls' from the face sagging forward, potentially reducing the need or desire for facial surgery in the long-term. The positive long-term effects of dermal fillers also coincide with research released this year on the positive long-term effects of Botox in preventing ageing changes in the face. Over the last 15 years, the focus for dermal filler treatments has shifted from the 2D view of just filling wrinkles to the 3D view of replacing the volume that we lose from the face as we age. By adding the 4th dimension of time, we can now develop an 'antigravity plan' of regular treatments which help to fight the effects of gravity in causing ageing, and essentially press a 'facial pause button' to prevent or reduce long-term facial ageing.
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Vaginal rejuvenation
Vaginal rejuvenation was the 'hot topic' at the Northern Hemisphere conferences this year, with the major conferences dedicating almost half a day to it. Vaginal rejuvenation (officially Vulvovaginal Rejuvenation) is the fastest growing segment of the market. While only a year ago no one had really heard of it, in the last year, a plethora of treatments for tightening, trimming, enhancing and rejuvenating our most intimate areas have become available. At FACE 2015, the major topics for VVR were the 'labial puff'
- using dermal filler to plump up the labia majora to make the vulva look more youthful and help to obscure the labia minora, discussion about the O-Shot - using PRP to improve sexual function, orgasm and urinary stress incontinence; and vaginal tightening/labial reduction with laser and radiofrequency.
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'Party feet': Killer heels easier to wear with dermal fillers in the feet
Many women love wearing killer heels but they are killer in nature as well as name! When the weight of the whole body is transmitted through the metatarsal joints of the ball of the foot, the supporting fat pad moves up the foot, the bones lose their protection, and we can develop 'metatarsalgia' or foot pain. Instead of resorting to flat shoes (which can sometimes trigger another foot condition called plantar fasciitis), or constantly having to take your shoes off and carry them, a relatively safe and simple treatment using dermal fillers into the fat pad of the foot - in the same way they are used to plump and support the fat pads in the face - can help provide constant cushioning and reduce foot pain. The foot is quite a sensitive area, so numbing cream is used before a soft dermal filler is placed into the fat pads which have been marked out as tender when wearing heels. The treatment takes about 30 minutes and comfortable sports shoes are recommended for the first 24-48 hours after treatment, with a gradual reintroduction to your 'killer' heels. Slow and steady is recommended for this treatment - you can always go back and repeat the treatment 1-2 months later. Other causes of foot pain, such as arthritis, need to be excluded by your injecting doctor before they will provide this treatment.
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Cryotherapy
Cold therapy, or cryotherapy, has been used for many years in sports recovery and is now being used to increase blood flow to the facial tissues in a pleasant and easy treatment which gives an immediate youthful glow. Cooling the tissues stimulates the blood vessels to contract, and then compensate once the cold stimulus is taken away, resulting in increased blood flow to the treated area. People were receiving the treatment at FACE, and reported that not only did your skin glow afterwards, it gave a feeling of euphoria, and was a fantastic hangover cure!
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Male facial contouring
The male cosmetic market is growing, but men have different needs and a different aesthetic to women. Men tend to seek treatment to improve or maintain their social status rather than to 'look beautiful', so will often ask for treatments that make them look 'stronger', less tired and stressed and more masculine. Where a high, flat forehead and open brows are considered attractive in a woman, men look better with a shorter forehead with a few horizontal lines, a strong brow and close-knit eyebrows. The ideal point of the cheek is lower and closer to the nose than in a woman, while the lower face is the most important indicator of masculinity, with research showing that a strong chin and jawline elicit trust and a perceived increase in leadership qualities and social status. From around the age of 25-30, the bones of the face start to shrink, resulting in the chin, jaw and cheeks becoming smaller and weaker and contributing to the ageing process. Treating the tear trough, mid-face and temples with dermal filler may help a man look less tired, while broadening the cheeks, chin and jawline to strengthen the face are all possible with dermal fillers. The lips can be enhanced, but must be much more subtle than with women - building slight volume and balance through the lips is desirable, but a strong lip border or big puffy lips are not. Botox must be used more judiciously in men, especially in the forehead, as it's important not to flatten and widen the forehead or to arch the brows - these can all feminise the face. Inexperienced injectors may try to treat men with the same techniques as women, which explains why some prominent men end up looking weird (like Shane Warne!) rather than better. An experienced injector can look at the sexual dimorphisms of the face and determine what treatments will be best to help improve the person's appearance, while tailoring a plan that will retain the natural character of their face, and the things that make them special and unique. 109
PROFILE
on our company website.
When and why do you think brows became such an important focus in a woman's everyday beauty routine? The surge in the popularity of eyebrows has been slowly growing since around 2000, but since 2010, the trend has exploded. For one thing, stars like Cara Delevingne, Kim Kardashian, and Lily Collins have drawn attention to the glamorising effect strong brows have on a face. Also, as we age, brows can thin and fade. Keeping them bold and beautiful is a fantastic and simple way to look younger. Who doesn’t want that?
What are the most common mistakes you see women making with their brows? The most common mistake I see is obviously overplucking. In my book, The Plain Truth About Brows, I actually outline a plan for people to simply step away from their tweezers for a while and then slowly work their way back. It’s kind of a “brow rehab” of sorts. Ironically, the other problem I see is comically overdone brows. Colour selection is critical and an unflattering shade makes brows look fake. This is the exact reason we developed our Universal Brow Pencil - this perfectly calibrated shade works well on almost everyone and eliminates the clownish appearance of “drawn-on brows.”
How do we achieve the perfect brow?
Q&A What was the inspiration behind Billion Dollar Brows starting out?
The
BROW QUEEN Billion Dollar Brows founder Natalie Plain was recently in New Zealand. We caught up with her to learn more about her brand and her passion for the perfect brow.
Billion Dollar Brows was inspired by my own eyebrow journey. When I was young, my mother took me to see a brow professional in Beverly Hills. The experience became one I never forgot—how special it made me feel, how much better I looked, and how simple it was to look polished and put together just by changing my eyebrows. I was determined to keep my brows beautiful but somewhere I lost my way. By the time University ended, I looked at photos of myself and wondered what was wrong with my face. It dawned on me that the problem was my eyebrows! I had over-plucked and didn’t feel I looked my best. That’s how my obsession was born! Around the time I had my eyebrow revelation, the world was in the midst of the 1990's war on brows. So many were in the same boat as me with thin, over-tweezed eyebrows. Not only did I want to help myself look better, I wanted to help the world do the same. I developed a product called Brow Boost to strengthen and maximize brows and the world was definitely ready because we sold our first bottle less than 24 hours after we launched it 110
The perfect brow is born of symmetry. You want them to start, arch, and end in the proper place. The easiest way to find your best brow is with the BDB Brow Buddy. We developed this tool so women (and men) can easily find their perfect start, arch, and end points for perfectly symmetrical brows that flatter their face - not someone else’s face as is the case with brow stencils. After that, you simply need some colour from either a pencil or a powder, then lock in your look with some gel and voila!
Who should we look to for 'brow' inspiration and who inspires you in terms of beauty? In truth, we should all inspire our own perfect brows. In one section of my book, I swapped gorgeous celebrity brows with a different gorgeous celebrity face and the results are hilarious. I do it to illustrate that brows are a very individualized thing and what looks good on one person does not always look good on another. That being said, there are plenty of inspiring women out there who have found bold brows that perfectly fit their face. Cara Delevingne will always have a special place in my heart because she inspired so much of the recent attention to eyebrows and lately, I am just in love with Rihanna and how she styles herself. She’s my current celebrity brow crush!
What advice would you give to women who have over-plucked their brows?
I can’t say it enough, just lay off the tweezers for a while. Also, invest in some Brow Boost to maximize and care for them. We grow very dependent on tweezers and we feel like we are neglecting our faces if we don’t immediately jump on each tiny hair that sprouts. Recently, I learnt a great way to fight the urge to pluck by covering new hairs with concealer, like BDB’s Brow Duo Pencil. Out of sight, out of mind! Trade tweeze time for time spent nourishing your brows inside and out.
Where do you see the future of brow trends heading? Brows will never disappear, though variations in style will come and go. Right now, I see trends in brows moving away from harsh and over-styled to an emphasis on eyebrow health, wellness, and natural beauty. I believe beautiful brows are a huge part of achieving an overall healthy body and appearance.
BILLION DOLLAR BROWS UNIVERSAL EYE PENCIL Formulated to work with most skin tones and hair colours, this amazing eyebrow pencil goes on smooth and natural. Plus, the Universal Brow Pencil is automatic - it never needs sharpening and it comes complete with a spoolie brush on the opposite end for effortless blending and a perfect finish. Skin Health Experts.
wow BROWS Get the brows you deserve with our favourite brow enhancing and conditioning picks for spring
JANE IREDALE BITTY BROW KIT For a refined look that still feels soft and light, this take-anywhere brow kit provides you with three brushes, a transparent brow wax and highly pigmented, water-resistant brow powders in either blonde or brunette, to add colour and depth to brows lacking definition and enhancement. Professional Skin & Beauty.
OSMOSIS COLOUR EYE LINER & BROW BRUSH A true multi-tasker, this dual-ended eyeliner/brow brush features two brush heads for lining eyes, filling in and sculpting brows and blending to a perfect finish. It can also be used to add shadow to line the lash area, as a soft liner finish or moisten with hydration mist to make a shadow into a wet liner. Osmosis NZ.
REVITALASH HI-DEF TINTED BROW GEL This multi-tasking setting gel helps control, enhance and tame for fuller-looking brows. Conditioning brows to protect from breakage, the double-ended applicator provides a styling brush and comb at one end and a soft bristle spoolie brush on the opposite for precision application. The semi-translucent mineral tint shade compliments most hair colours and allows for buildable colour intensity. Medtel Aesthetics.
BILLION DOLLAR BROWS BROW BOOST PRIMER & CONDITIONER This translucent formula provides a grip for makeup to adhere to, while simultaneously conditioning and strengthening. Paraben and fragrance-free, Brow Boost is made from a blend of soy proteins and vitamins derived from a form of seaweed found off the coast in France, rich in antioxidants and proven to strengthen and care for hair. Skin Health Experts.
BILLION DOLLAR BROWS BROW POWDER Giving brows a brilliant sheen of colour with a natural finish, these rigorously tested powders ensure quality and colour accuracy to enhance your natural brow line. Gliding effortlessly onto skin, these smooth powders are easy to apply and are available in 4 shades to suit an array of hair colours. Skin Health Experts.
OSMOSIS COLOUR WATER-RESISTANT BROW GEL Fill in, shape, contour and colour brows with one of 4 shades of this smudge-proof gel. Gliding on like a cream and set to last all day without smearing, this brow gel is packaged in a sleek component that incorporates a touch-up brush to keep your brows defined at any moment of the day or night for coverage that lasts. Osmosis NZ.
EYES OF HORUS GODDESS BROW DEFINE Paraben-free, smudge-proof and formulated using coconut and candelilla wax as a foundation, the Brow Define range offers strengthening and growth. With a slim-line pointed tip, it contours and fills in colour for shape and definition. Plus, the twist-up applicator assists with product control and a spoolie brush allows you to comb through colour and smudge strokes. CS Company.
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changing
FACE
Dr Catherine Stone gives us the lowdown on the very latest in skin tightening technology
I
f you’re over the age of 30, you may have noticed the first signs of ageing sneaking in around the eyes, jowls and neck. As skin loses its elasticity, these are the first places to show and can occur at different rates and ages for different people. Often as you reach the 40’s or 50’s, skin starts to drop and look ‘tired’ as brows descend over the eyes and your once crisp jawline starts to blunt and bend as the jowl descends. If you’re at the early stages of skin sagging, one of your options is a gentle yet effective tightening of the skin with a simple procedure called Elōs Sublime™. Elōs™ stands for “Electric-Optical Synergy” which means several types of skin rejuvenation treatments; both “Electrical” (radiofrequency) and “Optical” (light from IPL and/or diode laser) are used in the same treatment to stimulate collagen production in areas prone to ageing, and also improve overall skin quality. This proprietary combinedenergy technology offers a safer and more effective treatment than with RF alone, IPL alone or laser alone. Bi-polar radiofrequency waves are transmitted through the skin from one ‘pole’ in the head of the machine to the other, gently and precisely heating the skin in that area, to create immediate and long-term tightening. Skin is pre-cooled before the RF and light are administered, helping improve the comfort of the treatment and 112
reduce any heating of the upper layer of skin, thereby reducing the chance of side effects. Because radiofrequency is ‘colour-blind’ and not attracted to brown pigment in skin, it can be used on almost all skin types, including tanned skin. If you have olive or tanned skin, IPL is not usually recommended.
“Because radiofrequency is ‘colour-blind’ and not attracted to brown pigment in skin, it can be used on almost all skin types” Using these treatments in combination allows us to heat the skin more precisely, whilst reducing the chance of damage to the melanocytes (pigment cells) or fibroblasts (skin cells). The immediate tightening is often due to mild swelling which subsides over the next few days; slowly the skin starts to firm and tighten over the next 3-6 weeks. The results are cumulative, so best results are achieved with a course of tailored treatments. Elōs Sublime™ can be confidently used to treat all skin types for sagginess, loss of elasticity or textural irregularities. Treatments can be performed on the face, neck, and other areas of the body.
While we use Elōs Sublime™ specifically for skin tightening, the same Elōs™ technology can be used from the same machine but with different combinations of RF, IPL and laser and different settings. By changing the treatment ‘heads’ that touch the skin, we can provide a wider range of treatments, including clearing the skin of red vessels and brown spots to improve colour and tone (called ‘photo-rejuvenation’), while the Elōs™ LV head can be used to help seal small blood vessels in the legs and face. The latest Elōs Motif™ technology is now available, which gives faster and more effective hair removal than either IPL or laser. Keep in mind these skin tightening treatments only work on the skin, so they don't give the same results as facial surgery. If your face is sagging due to volume loss, your clinician may recommend treatment with dermal fillers by an experienced clinician to naturally replace lost volume, without the need for surgery. Overall, Elōs Sublime™ is a safe, tolerable, and effective tool for skin tightening that produces good results for the early stages of skin sagging. When combined with the SR or SRA head for skin rejuvenation, the results can be even more significant. Dr Catherine Stone is the founder of The Face Place MedSpa and has trained with the pioneers of cosmetic Botox and many of the top cosmetic doctors in the world.
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HYDROPEPTIDE UPLIFT EYE GENTLE FIRMING GEL
Self Care Group
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DECLÉOR AROMA LISSE 2-IN-1 DARK CIRCLE & EYE WRINKLE ERASER
the eyes HAVE IT
Self Care Group
Keep the sparkle in those busy pre-Christmas eyes with our top rejuvenating picks for the season RESULTIME FIVE EXPERTISE EYE CREAM
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ALGOLOGIE EYE MASK
House of Camille
World Beaute
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OSMOSIS REFRESH PM EYE SERUM
Osmosis NZ
O COSMEDICS EYE CORRECT
Probeauty
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MEDIK8 DARK CIRCLES EYE AWAKENING CONCEALER
House of Camille
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SOTHYS MULTIACTION EYE CONTOUR
de Spa Cosmetics
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DERMALOGICA TOTAL EYE CARE
Skin Health Experts
ENVIRON AVST EYE GEL
Professional Skin & Beauty
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PROFILE
beauty
INSIDER
Five minutes with global spa business leader and ASPAR creator, Lyndall Mitchell
Q&A After living her early life in the rhythm of nature on an idyllic tropical fruit farm, Lyndall Mitchell lived, breathed and experienced life in harmony with nature. That journey has continued in Lyndall’s career where she is most passionate about helping clients achieve an optimum state of health and wellness. The founder of Australia's award-winning Aurora Spa Retreats, Lyndall has also created a line of luxury spa products. The ASPAR range of botanically-active, high-performance products is a 24-piece offering. Each formulation was first created for in-spa treatment and has been tried and tested by Aurora therapists and refined in over 300,000 spa experiences to ensure it delivers the maximum results for clients, both in spa treatments and at home. We caught up with Lyndall on a flying visit to Auckland to learn more about her beauty philosophy.
What do you think has been the key to ASPAR's success? The fact that our brand is very client-focused and driven. We've aimed to create the most exceptional spa products for use both at home and in the salon.
Which products could you not personally live without? ASPAR Rosemary & Clove Thermal Balm. It's beautiful for a deep-tissue massage in-salon or to smooth onto your neck at home. The relaxing blend of menthol and pure essential oils work to release tension and ease both 114
your muscles and your mind. I love to start my day by using either the Rose & Aloe or Grapefruit & Seaweed Body Cleansers and for hydrating, I use our Ultra Rich Body Cream. Our candles are also important to my wellness routine.
What is your best-selling product and why? ASPAR Rose & Shea Hand Cream, which won a Vogue Australia award. It has the most incredible texture and just soaks right into the skin. We made over 40 refinements to get it just right and had clients using and trialling it daily. The grounding aromas really anchor you to mindfulness.
What's your best beauty tip? Have solid boundaries in place for the level of self-care you need. Use your products as tools to inspire that self-care and wellness. It's all about the small things we do every day for ourselves.
Can we expect to see skincare join the ASPAR range in future? Skincare is on our radar and it will be focused on super-skin food; a small yet potent range with incredible benefits for the skin. We're currently going through rigorous testing, so they'll be launched when ready. We want to ensure we're creating the best products possible.
What are the current spa trends you're seeing overseas? Wellness is becoming huge and incredibly valued in the spa industry and there is never any shortage of new treatments coming through. Though I think it's important to focus less on variety and more on quality. It should always be about achieving great results and taking the time to create signature treatments that you know will really benefit your clients. ASPAR products are distributed in New Zealand by Self Care Group.
super
SERUM New One Truth 818 Serum brings about a breakthrough in the era of anti-ageing skincare
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topping the clock is possibly the most common goal in the beauty industry, with a vast amount of exciting new research and improved formulas circulating within the market. So when you hear about a renowned American biologist teaming up with a former New Zealand beauty therapist and business entrepreneur, you can be assured it means something significant. Known as ‘The Man Who Would Stop Time’, renowned American biologist Dr. Bill Andrews has built his career around the hunt for a cure to human ageing, and its cause in relation to the telemere – a structure at the end of chromosomes that protects our DNA structure. Telemeres play a crucial part in the ageing process, which was the focus of Dr Andrew’s research. “Just like the caps on your shoelaces, the older the telemeres get, the more worn out and shorter they become, until they are rendered useless” says Dr. Andrews. Though scientists have known about telemeres since the 1930's, none have discovered a way to stop their shortening - until now. Dr. Andrews discovered 'Telomerase', an enzyme that when switched on in the body will not only stop telomere shortening, but also reverse it. Having tested nearly 300,000 compounds over 11 years for Telomerase-inducing activity, Dr. Andrews and his team combined their findings with medicinal chemistry to create the world's most powerful Telomerase-inducer, TAM-818. Enter New Zealand beauty business mogul Rachael D'Aguiar, who has secured the rights to the TAM-818 compound for use in the skincare industry. Her serum, One Truth 818, promises to lead the industry into a new era of skincare. The light, velvety serum absorbs almost instantly into
“One Truth is clinically-proven to decrease wrinkles by 14%, improve skin firmness by 20%, reduce the appearance of crow's feet by 11% and boost elasticity by 8%.”
skin, releasing the TAM-818 compound deep below the skin's surface while offering intense hydration to strengthen skin's natural barrier and reduce sensitivity. We're told that within 30 days of use, One Truth is clinically-proven to decrease wrinkles by 14%, improve skin firmness by 20%, reduce the appearance of crow's feet by 11% and boost elasticity by 8%. "Anti-ageing products do a great job of making us look younger in the short-term, but by accelerating the turnover of the cells you are actually accelerating the rate of telemere shortening," says One Truth founder, Rachael D'Aguiar. "One Truth preferentially lengthens the shortest telemeres, the ones responsible for ageing, slowing down the rate at which skin cells age. The molecules are small enough to penetrate the deepest layers of skin so we're very excited about the potential for them to be used in a skin cream. Research shows that TAM-818 is less toxic than ginger." One Truth 818 is distributed in New Zealand by Probeauty. 115
NEW PRODUCTS
1 2 3 3 OF THE BEST‌ Jane Iredale's PureLash Lengthening Mascara now comes with a new dualsided brush to create fuller, longer-looking lashes. A blend of seaweed lipids, wheat proteins and panthenol help thicken, curl and strengthen lashes too. Restore lip fullness while enhancing hydration with HydroPeptide Perfecting Gloss's two new spring colours: Santorini & Hibiscus. Ideal for plumping up and revealing a luminous pout simultaneously. From Self Care Group. Osmosis Long Wear Liquid Foundation gives medium to full coverage and glides on smoothly for an even complexion, with a semi-dewy finish that lasts all day. Available in five shades and containing anti-ageing goji berry extract.
Soft Touch
BEAUTY
shelf
Intensively exfoliating rough skin for velvet smoothness, DeclĂŠor 1000 Grain Body Exfoliator indulges body and mind with invigorating grapefruit essential oil. Turning from an oil to a milk upon contact with water for quick rinsing, this lush scrub contains pearl sugar, argan shell and orange peel for soft, refined skin. From Self Care Group.
Turning from an oil to a milk upon contact with water, this lush scrub contains pearl sugar, argan shell and orange peel
Hydration Heavyweight Sothys Hydra 3Ha offers the power of three ingredients to create one super formula. The range features an intensive serum, two day creams and mask and combines high and low molecular weight Hyaluronic acid, plus patended Boletus mushroom, which increases the efficiency of the two Hyaluronics by another 30%. From de Spa Cosmetics.
Parisian Summer In the spirit of the Riviera, the chic new makeup collection from Sothys 'Beach In The City' creates sultry and sophisticated looks for day and night. Harmonies of neutrals, bronzes and blush shades have been paired with hints of bright bold colours: think nude with warm, sun-kissed tones. From de Spa Cosmetics. 116
Eye Opener Sundari Firming Gotu Kola and Boswellia Eye Serum is designed to prevent puffiness and reduce visible under-eye bags using the best of holistic wisdom and modern science. Formulated with organic ingredients, this serum smoothes and replenishes tired-looking eyes. From Arrow Beauty.
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www.houseofcamille.co.nz Freephone 0800 406 416 Email: info@houseofcamille.co.nz
NEW PRODUCTS
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2 3 3 OF THE BEST‌
Inskin Cosmedics Medi-Soothe calms, reduces redness and repairs skin integrity associated with skin irritation. Perfect for post-laser, IPL, microdermabrasion, peels, sunburn and any skin trauma. From Probeauty. HydroPeptide Soothing Balm is a calming, cleansing and hydrating age-defying balm to protect compromised skin and accelerate recovery while soothing the skin following dermatologic procedures. From Self Care Group. Dermalogica Clear Start Skin Soothing Hydrating Lotion is a lightweight, oil-free moisturiser for teens experiencing irritated, dry skin in addition to breakouts. This comforting lotion restores moisture whilst recalibrating oil production.
All Glossed Up
BEAUTY
shelf
This rejuvenating serum relaxes and reduces surface lines and wrinkles for younger-looking skin
Glow Time Targeting tired, stressed skin, DeclĂŠor Aurabsolu offers the magic of allowing skin to glow from dawn till dusk. Using the purest form of Jasmine Absolute, Aurabsolu reveals new radiance to leave skin imbued with freshness, vitality and a renewed glow. The 3-product range includes an Intense Glow Awakening Cream, Intense Glow For Eyes and a Refreshing Mist. From Self Care Group.
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Artistic Nail Design's Fall Moon Rising collection features 6 colours inspired by the elements of an autumn night. The beautifully glossy shades include a cool creme taupe, cinnamon shimmer, berry creme, spicy orange sienna, sea-blue shimmer and violet glaze. From House of Camille.
Smooth Operator Gatineau Renew 7 Laser is a seven-day intensive resurfacing treatment that smoothes skin and optimizes the efficacy of daily skin-care creams. Containing a concentration of high-performance ingredients, and rich in trace elements and vitamins, this rejuvenating serum relaxes and reduces surface lines and wrinkles for younger-looking skin. From Probeauty.
Mineral Magic Susan Posnick introduce COLORFLO Loose Mineral Foundation. With all-natural ingredients, including nourishing vitamins A and E, COLORFLO provides powerful sun protection and builds invisible coverage for flawless-looking skin. The water and sweat-resistant formula doesn't clog pores or irritate skin and comes with a luxurious Kabuki brush. From House of Camille.
Le soin
Saisonnier ! S E A S O N A L
T R E A T M E N T
PINEAPPLE – GUAVA · SPRING – SUMMER 2015
limited edition seasonal facial of to discover in
Guava & PineaPPle
sPa and continue at home.
Exclusively in beauty institutes & spas. sothys.co.nz
RSVP Wella Trend Vision New Zealand/Australia Grand Final: Sunday 13th September @ Shed 9, Queen’s Wharf, Auckland
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Exhibit: Your Vision On Display - NZ Fashion Week 2015 Opening Night: Monday 24th August @ Viaduct Events Centre, Auckland
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YOUR TOTAL
HAIR & BEAUTY
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Indola Joico Juuce Keratin Complex KMS Lilash L’Oréal Matrix Nioxin Refectocil Redken Salon Equipment Salon Smart Schwarzkopf Tigi Vita 5 Wahl Wella
10/08/15 2:15 PM
Salon Furniture & Supplies UPDATE YOUR SALON Stockists of everything a salon needs including… quality salon furniture, electrical equipment, scissors, brushes, combs, capes, towels plus a great selection of professional product brands. 100% NZ owned for over 30 years.
DE LORENZO I SCHWARZKOPF I JOICO I FUDGE I WELLA I DAX I NIOXIN I WAHL I ROUX FANCI-FULL I INDOLA I JEVAL I FAMA I NAK I DANCOLY I MASON PEARSON I MANIC PANIC I SILKY Call or visit our new cash & carry showroom. Now located at 79B Ellice Road, Glenfield, Auckland Phone 09 441 7676 Email lescheveux@xtra.co.nz
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Contact your nearest stockist AR Distributors - Nelson (03) 547 7707 Progressive Salon Supplies - Christchurch (03) 3799 735 Salon Warehouse - Auckland (09) 555 5730
For more information on how you can offer jane iredale or Environ to your clients, email info@psb.net.nz or visit www.psb.net.nz
Euro Salon Supplies Email: info@eurosalonsupplies.co.nz www.eurosalonsupplies.co.nz facebook.com/eurosalonsupplies 123
FOCUS WATCH TREND
RAW
into the season
Liz Lamb discusses the myriad health benefits of spring's much-loved fruit, the avocado
W
hen I say awesome, do you think avocados? I bet a ton of other things come to mind, but after reading this article I bet you’ll pair these two words together. Persea Americana or the ‘avocado’ fruit originated in Mexico with the oldest evidence of avocado use dating way back to 10,000BC. Its use in a variety of culinary settings matched with the joyful delight experienced by everyone when they open one up to find a perfect, green, untarnished interior sets the avocado apart from other fruits. Not only does it taste good, but avocado is packed full with wellness. In keeping with this edition's theme of oils, I’m going to share with you the benefits of delicious avocado oil. Avocado oil is pressed from the pulp of the fruit rather than the seed. Approximately 70% of the fat in avocado oil is healthy monounsaturated fatty acids (MUFA). Have you ever wondered what MUFA actually means? Fun fact – ‘mono’ means one, and saturation tells us that the structure of the carbon atoms are linked to each other by one strand (or bond). Therefore ‘mono un saturated’ means that there is one (mono) part of the molecule that has a double bond (un saturated). Clever huh? The main way that MUFA's are beneficial is their effect on your heart. MUFA's work by decreasing the ‘lousy’ LDL cholesterol and sugar ‘triglyceride’ levels in your body. The fat in avocado oil also helps your body to increase the absorption of nutrients eaten in the same meal. This is because a lot of nutrients are ‘fat soluble’ which means they need to be dissolved in fat in order to be absorbed by your body. By using avocado oil in cooking, or drizzled over your salads, you are providing your nutrients with a free taxi ride into your body. Also, the powerful antioxidants found in many fruit and vegetables are super-charged when combined with avocado oil through its action on your ‘mighty mitochondria’ which are not usually able to be reached by other antioxidants. ‘Mighty’ mitochondria are the energy powerhouses of your body and avocado oil can help keep them in tip-top shape. Finally, avocado contains other compounds (polyhydroxylated fatty alcohols) which reduce skin damage and harmful inflammation that your body creates in response to being out in the sun (ultra-violet light exposure). These special molecules, when paired with the antioxidants mentioned above, means that eating avocado oil (as well as a good skin care regime) can help you towards super skin. Avocado oil is healthy for your heart, helps you to absorb nutrients from other foods, is a powerful antioxidant and helps protect your skin from damage. So, I’m sure you’ll agree when I say ‘Awesome Avocado!’ Liz Lamb is a BSc/BCom graduate, model and a NZ representative high jumper. She is a keen foodie and baker who is passionate about helping others understand the science behind our healthy food choices. Follow her on instagram @whysohealthy and visit her website www.whysohealthy.com 124
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